OurGlobalAdventure

Heather and Darren's Travels

Month: August 2017

One Headland Too Many (or Maybe Three)

I can’t remember the last time I went kayaking. Having nightmare recollections of ‘near-death’ experiences put me off for a while, so it could well be a few years since I’ve ventured near one. Now, at Lake Tahoe, I had the chance to rectify that.

The kayak place on Baldwin Beach rented out double ‘sit on tops’, i.e. you don’t have to don the full kayak skirt and strap yourself in, you just do as it says on the tin. Sit on top. Given the weather, sunny and warm, this was perfectly suited to our needs. In fact, we found that the drops of water drizzling down the paddle, gently splashing our legs was pleasantly cooling in the late morning sun.

The push off from shore was smooth and calm, launching us oh so gradually into the still clear water of Lake Tahoe. After an initial momentary angst, I experienced an almost drug-induced sense of euphoria. My inner sense of kayaking joy – long buried, re-surfaced as we glided along. My paddle dipped and plopped into the water either side, propelling us forward with a rhythmical grace. This was my true calling! I am a kayaker! I was born for kayaking!


Short-lived though it was, that initial exhilaration was memorable. After that came an acknowledgement of the hours to come, the effort, the exertion, driving from the shoulders and the hips.  Darren’s advice: imagine there’s a monkey sat square on right in front of you, so you’re not just pushing back with the paddle in the water but you’re also ‘punching the monkey’ with your other fist, driving the airborne side of the paddle forward. We’d been shown a map before we left, so we had a rough idea of where we were going. The rental guy had ominously mentioned that this is the busiest place for water traffic in the whole of Lake Tahoe, so we might want to continue beyond the map boundary, at which point we would find a cool waterfall.

He wasn’t kidding about the busy bit. Having taken our lives in our hands to traverse Emerald Bay, we continued with Operation Cool Waterfall. Ever the optimist, Darren insisted it was just around the next headland. Proved wrong for the second and again a third time, we found ourselves in ‘Just one more headland’-land. Rounding number four, not a waterfall in sight, let alone a cool one. The adrenaline-fueled energy I had on the way out visibly drained from my body as we faced the long kayak home and exhaustion set in, the palms of my hands sore and inflamed from the abrasion of the paddle.

The increasing grouch level due to the onset of tiredness compounded my new pet hate: power boats. Devils in disguise. Each kayaking trip (in my experience at least) has its challenges. In the past we’ve had storms, we’ve had wind, we’ve had currents, we’ve had traffic. Power boat traffic is something else. If it was up to me, no one would be granted a power boat license without first hand experience of the impact a power boat has on an unpowered craft such as a kayak.

To the innocent bystander, power boats look appealing, they look cool, they look fast. To the kayaker, they look mean, they look disruptive, and they look even faster. Step one: establish eye contact, make sure they’ve seen you in your tiny yet fluorescent kayak, to avoid the risk of being mown down and chopped into tiny pieces, your greatest achievement in life being to feed the fish in death. Step two: when a direct hit is unlikely, disregard your plotted course entirely and instead turn the kayak to face the power boat’s wake so as to avoid being capsized from a wave hitting you on the side. Step three: on approaching the power boat’s wake, forget you’re even in a kayak, ride that mother wave like a champion surfboarder, and punch the monkey like there’s no tomorrow.

With The Kayakers Guide to the Power Boat Galaxy firmly committed to memory, it was all well and good when I was on tip top form, bursting with energy and raring to go at the start of the trip. Not so good after one headland too many! Long story short, Step one: nope, no eye contact. Step two: Look that wave in the face, check. Oh hang on, that’s not a wave, it’s a wall of water akin to a tsunami! Step three: um, not a lot of wave riding going on. I had nothing left in me to power through the likes of that, and with a look of sheer horror on my face, I very quickly lost momentum.  The monkey had won and I resigned myself to being engulfed by the lake.

The remarkable thing about wide, squat, sit on top kayaks is their unmatched stability. Not to mention Darren’s role in paddling like a mad thing, sat right behind me. Point being, we remained joyfully upright, and even though I resembled a drowned rat having taken the brunt of the wave, Darren remained smugly dry. I was duly chastised, not only for my poor paddling skills but also as we then had to rescue my water bottle bobbing in the lake some way away, having not been bungeed down properly. Maybe I’m not so cut out for this kayaking lark after all.

With my motivation as well as my energy on a downward spiral, we limped back to shore. Quite honestly, if you could fall asleep in a kayak, that would have been my moment. The sun was still beating down, so the rays and the the breeze helped me to dry out.  The heat also made me prone to mild hallucinations… in my head I was a majestic iguana basking in the sun’s rays, merely going through the physical motions of tipping my paddle from side to side.

Once on dry land and with subsequent time to reflect, I like to remember the good as well as the bad. Whilst I have been known to create a melodrama out of a crisis, this was not quite on a par with the near death experience level of previous kayak trips. In fact a positive success then! The only real long-lasting downside was the rather unattractive shade of lobster red that our legs turned later in the day. Maybe sit on tops are not so ‘perfectly suited’ to sunny weather after all. 

Hot Springs and Cold Beers

One of Darren’s more inspired ideas was to get a book on ‘Hot Springs of California’. We tested it out earlier this year, which led us to ‘The Hot Tub’ in the middle of nowhere between Crawley and Mammoth Lakes, a delightful way to warm our bones after camping in extremely chilly conditions.

Our latest venture was to find Buckeye Springs. Now one of the things about hot springs is that they tend to be in random, remote locations, not intuitive and certainly not in places you would happen to stumble upon (without said book or advanced googling skills). We followed the directions, something along the lines of “take this side road for 13 miles, after the cattle grid take the dirt track on your left, when it splits in two take the middle fork until you arrive at a flat-ish parking area – in winter you should see the steam rising ahead, in summer look out for the green algae on the rocks”. Green algae was not in abundance but we did at least arrive at a flat-ish parking area. From there, the book promised, it was a mere 100 yards or so to the hot springs.
Wearing nothing but my bikini and sandals, I started to follow what seemed like the most obvious path. After maybe 300 yards, the path died out at the river – no steam, no hot springs. Doubled back and tried again. And again. The terrain was not quite what you’d call easy going. Uneven, steep, boggy in places, I have to admit I felt like a prize idiot scrambling over the rocks, clinging to branches for support, with only the barest of essentials covering my dignity.


Whilst it was apparent we had stopped at the wrong flat-ish parking area, we were definitely in the vicinity, and our perseverance eventually paid off. We were greeted by streams of hot water cascading down the rocks, leading to a shower-like waterfall sprinkling into the hot pools below. All this right next to a raging river, icy from the mountain snow melt. 


On a Saturday afternoon in the middle of summer, you don’t expect to have this sort of natural wonder to yourselves. There is some expectation that there will be others there, albeit only those with (i) advanced navigation skills, (ii) an ability to persist in the face of adversity, or (iii) had this knowledge handed down to them over the generations. It seemed inappropriately inquisitive to interrogate the other hot spring bathers on how they found the place so I politely kept my thoughts to myself.

Seems to attract an odd collection of people though. For a start, there were 3 young quintessential American girls. The type with blonde hair and pigtails, matching baseball caps, cans of Coors Lite, and bikinis designed to make the most of their curves. The type of all-out American gals that Colin Frisell set out to find in Love Actually, the ones who would dig his cute British accent. Then there was the guy with the Stetson and mustache, all he was missing was the cowboy boots and checked shirt (kind of difficult in a hot pool).

Then the nudists turned up. Which we didn’t mind one bit, especially as it cleared most other people away. Not to mention that this nude couple had film star bodies (not that we were looking). Anyway, great timing to virtually get the place to ourselves, so we could enjoy the beauty of the hot springs, sating our thirst with cans of beer and prosecco, at one with the surrounding environment.


Epilogue: We visited again early the next morning, this time armed with cans of coffee. Not another soul around, we wallowed in the indulgent hot water, what a start to the day! Topped only by our mere 100 yard walk, this time from the correct flat-ish parking area!

Sucking the Marrow out of Life: Lake Tahoe trip

For us, like so many others, it seems to be a constant struggle to maintain a positive work life balance. (Admittedly, we do have the added bonus of Darren’s somewhat flexible work schedule and the three day weekend I get every fortnight.) One of our ways of coping is to make the most of when I have work travel commitments, by tagging on weekends that complement my movements, rather than making my work travel a burden. Our latest example of this was planning a trip that for me would end in Reno, Nevada, so I could fly from there direct to Seattle, leaving Darren (poor thing) with the lonely roadtrip home, albeit interspersed with an extra few days’ holiday.

Friday

The weekend started with a speedy getaway (as speedy as can be expected on a Friday afternoon). Direction north, destination for the night just somewhere along Highway 395 on the eastern side of the Sierras. Darren has become somewhat expert in finding random side roads along which there is no other traffic (indeed no other sign of human life, were it not for the electricity pylons). The combo of balmy evenings, late sunsets and truck camping (i.e. no tent to put up) make for extremely stress-free camping. Also, with just a tiny crescent moon, one of the best star-studded clear nights we have seen in a long time.

Saturday

An early start (when did we last NOT have an early start…?) and more road trip miles along the scenic 395, until we arrived at the trailhead for Parker Lake just off the June Lake Loop drive. We nimbly bagged the last feasible spot in the car park before the unfortunate latecomers were left with no other option than to litter the roadside like an abandoned scrapyard, causing future traffic chaos and no doubt some lost wing mirrors. We were pushed for time to do our planned hike to Parker Lake so we made it into a trail run instead. In fact, I speeded things up even more by forgetting (yet again, when will I learn?) to put mossie repellent on, meaning our time at the lake turnaround point was cut demonstrably short, amidst much yelling, cursing and slapping.



Next stop was the ghost town of Bodie. The big conversation piece on the way centred around my dilemma of whether I had actually been there before in a previous trip with my sister some 15+ years ago. Ever get that vague recollection, where you’re not even sure whether it’s your memory or someone else’s? When we arrived, I didn’t recognize it whatsoever. Turns out it was my parents who had previously visited Bodie, and my sister and I had been to a smaller, more typical one-lane cowboy and western style ghost town near Death Valley all those years ago.


Next on our list was Buckeye hot springs, an epic journey in and of itself, which merits its own separate post. Feeling invigorated and relaxed from our hot bath (maybe the beer helped too!), our last stop was a nearby narrow potholed lane leading to a deserted dead end, the expansive views and peace & quiet making it another great stop to rest our weary heads in the truck for the night.

Sunday

Following our early(!) morning dip in the hot springs, and a brief breakfast stop off the 395 with porridge and instant coffee, the road trip continued up to Baldwin Beach, near South Lake Tahoe. Cue separate kayaking post. Fueled up with a sneaky burger (surely we’d earned it after all that paddling!), next on our whistle stop tour was a bun fight for a car parking space at Eagle Falls trailhead, where we were due to leave the truck overnight and head off into the wilderness for a proper overnight backpacking camping trip. Parking space secured, our attention turned to the herculean effort of packing everything we may need for the night into two rucksacks.

Let me say this. I am not cut out for backpacking. I am small. I am weedy. I don’t like carrying heavy things. And I was more than a little puffed from the 12 miles or so of kayaking. Balance all of that with our penchant for the odd beer or two. This results in a crazy schizophrenic dilemma in your head. (“Take the beer”. “Leave it. Drop it. Step away from the beer…” “Take it. You know you want to”). A gallon of water in my rucksack didn’t help either.

Our bags finally packed, we narrowly missed being overtaken by a group of four year olds on the initial stretch. Not long after, a larger lady (I’m being polite) engaged us in conversation on the trail to ask where we were backpacking to. I could barely grunt a response but Darren cheerfully replied “oh, just up to the lake”. Her follow up question of “oh really? Are you just practicing for a proper trip?” did not go down too well with me. OK, so it was only a couple of miles hike to where we were planning on camping but when you’re weighed down like a packhorse, that is really not the point. A warning glance from Darren only just stopped me handing over my rucksack to her right there and then, with a petulant “See how you like it”.

Eagle lake, when we reached it, was such a welcome sight. And we beat the four year olds, who had remained hot on our trail all the way up.

When I first noticed Darren unlacing his hiking boots and removing his socks, I didn’t really bat an eyelid. It’s not out of character in any way for him to soak his feet in cold water. I was a little more disturbed when he donned his rucksack and headed for what looked like the narrowest part of the lake/emerging river to cross to the other side. “Erm, it’s this way” he muttered. No, no, no, this cannot be happening. I shook my head to dislodge the nightmare, but to no avail. I watched, horrified, as Darren gingerly edged his way across, the water rising above his knees. He hitched up the legs of his shorts as the water lapped higher and higher. Frantically, I started searching for other options. Dumping my backpack on a rock, I ran off in the opposite direction, oh yeah, I can move when I have to!   And praise be, there IS a god!  The proper path materialized in front of me, having been hidden behind some rocks.  I’ve never been so relieved to find a path.

All that remained was for Darren to make the return journey through the river while I remained blissfully dry.  He didn’t even mind the wasted double river crossing so much, as it provided some brief cooling respite from his post-kayak sunburn.  (Me?  I’d rather have hot legs).  With the four year olds – and everyone else – long gone, we set up camp, and got stuck into the beer.




Monday

After a hearty camping breakfast, the return hike the next day was, it has to be said, a little lighter and combined with the downhill, so much easier.


Following a scenic drive round to the more remote north east shores of Lake Tahoe, we headed for ‘Secret Cove’ (really, how can a place be secret if it’s on the map as Secret Cove?).   Maybe not secret, but it is somewhat elusive, and a proper hike to get down to.  I thought we’d done our hiking for the day!  However, this was well worth it, a pretty horseshoe-shaped cove with turquoise water, smooth rocks, and white sand.  We found ourselves some shade under the generous canopy of the pine trees, munched on our tasty picnic lunch, and actually had some chill out time.

Of course, Darren doesn’t sit still for long.  Out came the wetsuit so he could get a swim in, which was kind of ironic as this was an optional nudist beach.  There’s everyone else getting their kit off, meanwhile Darren is putting extra layers on.



The last stop on the whistle stop Tahoe tour was Reno.  Known as The Biggest Little City in the World.  Don’t ask, seems very random to me.  First impressions were a bit of a poor man’s Vegas: casinos galore but without the glitz and glamour, the sin and debauchery, the party til you drop atmosphere and the knowledge that What happens in Vegas, Stays in Vegas.  Still, I reckoned that with an early flight to work the next day, that’s probably a good thing!


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