We first visited New Zealand on our original global adventure in 2003, and spent the month touring the South Island in a rickety old camper van that had frankly seen better days.  One of the ‘must do’s’ at the top of my list was Milford Sound, the Fiordland of the south.  It is New Zealand’s most famous tourist destination and according to Rudyard Kipling, the eighth wonder of the world.  Unfortunately in 2003, the weather and events conspired against us, it being August and the height of winter in the southern hemisphere.  The narrow winding road to the fjords was decidedly snowed in and even our cunning plan to follow the snow plough didn’t get too far when the snow plough driver himself stopped, turned around and gave up in search of less snowy roads to plough.

And so Milford Sound has remained on my ‘to do’ list ever since.  I vowed to go back… and 20 years later, here we are.  Only this time it’s December and allegedly the height of summer.  Darren beat me to it by a matter of weeks, clocking up a couple of cheeky kayaking trips on his solo jolly. But sailing into first Doubtful Sound and then Milford Sound aboard Seabourn Odyssey, was really something else.  We spent the best part of a day cruising the fjords and enjoying the spectacular scenery, surrounded by towering peaks and cascading waterfalls.

We had our share of showers during the day, but given it rains here more than half of the days in a year, we thought we got off rather lightly.  

As the ship pirouetted one last time and set her sights on the open ocean, we headed for the hot tub and ordered a glass of champers to toast that we finally made it and to say goodbye in style!  The icing on the sailaway cake was the appearance of the most lovely rainbow.

The wide expanse of choppy water between New Zealand and Australia, i.e., the Tasman Sea made for a blur of sea days, actually a welcome rest after all those back to back port days.  This is where you get a really great opportunity to experience the Seabourn brand at its finest.  

Not forgetting we still had New Year to celebrate too.

Celebratory parties and excellent food and drink opportunities abounded.

And before we knew it, there was land ahoy and we were sailing past Tasmania (ooh, there’s another one for the bucket list).  Next up: Australia.

And the back to back ports just kept on coming.  All the way down at the bottom of New Zealand’s South Island lies a lesser known and much smaller island – Stewart Island.  We didn’t know much about Stewart Island and didn’t have particularly high expectations, but it turned out to be one of our favorite ports.  It didn’t hurt that the sun had got his hat on.

From the tender landing at Golden Bay Wharf, there was an optional shuttle to take us to the small town of Oban on the other side of the island.  But why ride when you can walk?  And why walk the easy way along the paved road when you can detour via overgrown rainforest trails?  Rainforest it was for us then.

We popped out at the aptly named Observation Point along the way, looking back over rolling hills, with tiny fishing boats moored in the bay and our much bigger ship hanging tight for us further out.  

Oban was a charming spot nestled in Halfmoon Bay.  

It had everything you could want from a cute little tourist village by the sea – a corner shop that sold crisps, a fish & chip shop, and a pub.  We were delighted to see it also had a bike rental place.  Even better, they had e-bikes 🙂

Renting an e-bike for a couple of hours meant we could explore much more of the surrounding wild coastline and scenic bays than on foot.  We zipped from one secluded bay to the next.  We were blown away by the white sandy beaches – it reminded us of some of the prettiest spots we’ve visited in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides.

We were serenaded by these little guys, Tuis apparently.  Those little white sacs around their necks inflate when they sing, v cool.

Eager to fit in as much as possible into our day on Stewart Island, Darren had booked us on an afternoon sea kayaking trip.  It was just us, our guide Phil, and one other couple (who’d only ever been on ‘sit-on-top’ kayaks in temperate Caribbean water).  If you look at any other kayak blog posts I’ve done, it seems there’s always a decent dose of drama.  And this one was no different.  The wind conditions are what made this one ‘interesting’.  

As we rounded one particular headland, to me it felt very similar to our recent Rangitoto kayaking experience from Auckland – fighting against massive waves as we bobbed uncontrollably like a cork, with a soda stream of salty water siphoned directly at my face.  Darren later told me it was way more dangerous than that.  So much so that the guide offered to comp the trip.  Notably, the other couple didn’t make it round the headland and the guide went back to check on them and then called us back to safety.  As you can imagine, with the wind behind us, getting back was somewhat quicker.   

Side note, in a moment of experimentation, I asked ChatGPT to write this post for me.  I told it that we did a rainforest hike, a bike ride and a ‘hairy’ kayak trip in Oban.  I’m not going to call it cheating because it didn’t produce anything of value (“our hiking boots crunched on the damp earth” – wait, what?).  But it did cause me to chuckle when its description of the kayak trip included an encounter with a Great White Shark!  Turns out AI has got itself a rather creative imagination.

Back in the real world, the advantage of the kayak trip being cut a little short was that we got to squeeze in a wee drink at the pub before rejoining the ship.  Sitting in the beer garden with the last of the afternoon sun and a Pimms and lemonade – don’t mind if we do. To be fair, I think Darren had a pint and tucked himself into the shade of a patio umbrella, but that’s just par for the course.  And this being our last port in New Zealand, I also stocked up with crisps from the corner shop 🙂

Thanks New Zealand, I hope one day we’ll be back!

What in the world is in Timaru?  Not a lot, truth be told.  Quite how it came to be included in our New Zealand South Island itinerary is a bit of a mystery.  Luckily, Darren put his ideas machine into overdrive and came up with a tailored day trip to show me some of the highlights he’d experienced on his recent solo South Island trip.

We arrived in the port of Timaru to a very gloomy grey day and picked up a rental car to drive inland through the pretty countryside of Canterbury.  Very typical scenery with rolling hills and fields of sheep.  Darren rather excelled himself with the first stop, which was a bakehouse aka pie shop in Fairlie.  Pork belly puff pastry pie with apple sauce and a garnish of pork crackling, don’t mind if I do.  I couldn’t help feeling a tad smug also as the drive over Burkes Pass revealed brilliant blue skies, leaving the leaden grey clouds to linger on the coast.  

A stroll by the glistening turquoise waters of Lake Tekapu gave us a chance to stretch the legs.  I’m sure the locals don’t pronounce it Take-A-Poo but the playground humor makes me chuckle every time 🙂

And then in Twizel (which immediately makes me think of Twiglets, although there were none to be found), we rented a couple of mountain bikes.  Whilst Darren had spent the best part of five days biking the Alps 2 Ocean route, this was the condensed two hour highlight version.  The bike was a night and day improvement on the Wellington one, and the scenery was just blow away breathtaking, especially with the glorious sunshine of California proportions.  

We cycled through yellow fields of waving wheat, the snowbound Mount Cook majestic in the distance.  A brief lunch stop at Lake Pukaki included a mini picnic of succulent sushi salmon with soy and wasabi, washed down with lashings of ginger beer (the non-alcoholic type).  

Cycled back to Twizel, followed by a scenic drive back to Timaru, and all in all – a Grand Day Out, as Wallace and Gromit would say. 

The crusty coastal weather continued as we sailed into the Otago peninsula to dock at Port Chalmers.  I asked Darren what was on the agenda today – surprise surprise, a bike ride!  Ah, but this time on e-bikes.  Hallelujah!  Praise be to Ogden Bolton Jr, Michael Kutter and others along the way for the invention and evolution of the electric bike.  I was mighty happy to power up for the day.

After collecting the bikes in Dunedin, we followed the shoreline bike path past Anderson Bay and MacAndrew Bay, fighting a ferocious headwind.  We stopped for coffee and cake in the little village of Portobello (not a mushroom or a market to be found) and the weather was looking up.

Imagine a horseshoe shaped bay that you want to do a circular route round and you’ve got to cross the water somehow.  Lucky for us, Darren had booked us on the bike taxi from Portobello to Port Chalmers, a one woman operation involving a tiny metal boat and a few bike racks.

Safely on the other side, with the advantage of the e-bikes and the wind behind us, we were flying! Back in Dunedin, we figured 30+ miles of cycling still deserved a drink.  True to form, Darren had that all wrapped up too, with not one but two breweries on the agenda – Noisy Brewing, followed by Steamer Basin on No Name Alley.

It was time to take a break from all that festive eating and drinking and hit up a few ports.  First up, on Boxing Day, was Wellington – our last taste of the North Island.  And even though it was Boxing Day down under, it was still Christmas Day back home.  So we were able to FaceTime the folks to say Merry Christmas and show them the glorious blue sky and sunshine we were experiencing.

A day of nice weather is just what we needed for our two wheeled adventure.  After a short shuttle ride out of town, we were dropped off with mountain bikes, helmets and a packed lunch. Our mission for the day – to ride the Remutaka Rail Trail from Maymorn through the Wairarapa Valley.  The trail follows a historic disused railway line amidst lovely lush green countryside and native New Zealand bush.

Even though the trail was wide and well maintained,  it started with a steep hill and loose gravel.  That’s a steep hill UP by the way.  Hence it started with me walking and pushing the bike, cursing under my breath about whose idea it was to not get an e-bike.   

Still, once we got properly underway, I was able to take in the fantastic scenery and enjoy the ride.  

I soon learned the importance of swapping out my sunglasses for normal glasses before going into a long dark railway tunnel – all the better for avoiding the potholes and puddles.  (And there’s something about railway tunnels that will never not scare me, after being subjected to some horrifying seventies propaganda as a child to deter kids from playing on train tracks.  If you know, you know!).

And then there was the Siberia Gully swing bridge.  Very photogenic she was too, although I didn’t hang around to look down.

The final section was as if it was a totally different trail.  It became a narrow winding single track with overgrown bits, washed out bits and steep drop offs.  Hence my ride ended as it started – with me pushing.  Ho hum. Still a fab ride overall.

The pretty little coastal town of Kaikoura was up next, in the Canterbury region of New Zealand’s South Island.  We messed up a bit here in somehow managing to not book a kayaking trip, especially as the area is renowned for its sea life.  But we made the best of it and went for a walk instead, in search of other wildlife. 

The Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway winds round the headland, starting right from the ship tender drop off.

As we approached the cliff edge, the frenzied cacophony of squawks and shrieks from thousands of sea birds told us we were in ‘Bird City’.  We were immersed in the largest red billed gull colony in New Zealand, topped off with terns, oyster catchers and black backed gulls.

Down by the shore line, we assumed it must be the wrong season to see the New Zealand fur seals we’d heard also live here, as there didn’t seem to be any sign of them.  Until we practically tripped over one.  And then another.  Turns out the path followed the rocky shoreline right through the middle of the seal colony.  We tried to keep our distance but they didn’t seem to respect the path too much.

Wildlife done, all that was left to experience Kaikoura was to check out the local brewery and round off our visit with a pint and a packet of crisps 😋 

No photo of said beer or crisps so here’s some from the ship instead

Ooh, you gotta love Christmas on a cruise ship.  The decorations, the festivities, the atmosphere.  And to be fair, they didn’t seem to go overboard with decorations in Auckland, making it all the more magical when we stepped onboard Seabourn Odyssey.

It felt like I’d been working right up to the 11th hour.  But with Christmas Day not until Monday, we still had Christmas Eve to wind down and let it all seep in. 

Overnight, we’d cruised north, way north, and north a bit further, almost to the tip of the North Island of New Zealand.  And so it was, on Christmas Eve, we dropped anchor in ‘Bay of Islands’, a stunning collection of 150 or so little islands, peninsulas and inlets.  From there, we began a carefully choreographed set of maneuvers involving tenders, ferries, and buses – in order to go for a walk.

We were up and away on the first passenger tender, eager to get going (and more importantly to get back and make a start on the festive eating and drinking).  Waiting for us at the dock in Waitangi was a shuttle bus to the nearby town of Paihia.  Despite the initial choppy seas and angry looking overcast skies, the weather held up as we took to the coast path and beach trails from Paihia to Opua. 

A short ferry hop took us to Okiato and our terrain changed to dense, steep rainforest.  Proper Lord of the Rings stuff, very cool.   Weird and wonderful trees, gigantic ferns and creepy strangler vines.  Bird calls from another planet competing with the overpowering white noise of cicadas (or whatever Antipodean equivalent they have over here).  The humidity was palpable, and the effort intense.

Having run out of water way earlier, we were mightily relieved to emerge from the jungle to a road with signs of life.  And more importantly, an oasis of a petrol station.  Nine miles in (with just a couple more to go) and somewhat dehydrated, we sat on the curb downing Gatorade and tucking into a well deserved chocolate chip cookie.  At which point a friendly bus driver filling up with petrol took pity on us and offered us a lift into the nearby town of Russell.  He didn’t have to ask twice!

Another ferry ride, shuttle bus and tender completed our Christmas Eve outing, at which point we were pretty glad to see our ship. The rest of Christmas Eve and Christmas Day really was all about enjoying Christmas.

There are some pivotal moments that I feel warrant a mention, even though I don’t have any photo evidence… Resting our aching muscles in the hot tub on the back deck, for one. With champagne, because it’s only right to have bubbles in the bubbles.

And then one of my favourite activities, which I’d been building up to big time, really looking forward to it: a Singalong Christmas Carol session. Darren on the other hand, took a bit of persuading, said he’d meet me there, and just about made it in time for the last chorus of We Wish You a Merry Christmas at the end. I was festively decked out in my Santa hat (brought with me all the way from home), swinging my mulled wine and singing with gusto. And somehow not a single photo to memorialize it.

Merry Christmas all!

It may not seem like much but boy, was I glad to see the inside of Tom Bradley terminal at LAX.  It was a week before Christmas and I was finally about to follow in Darren’s tracks, destination New Zealand.  Note to self… in the run up to Christmas, chances are that the merry hell of standard Friday evening LA traffic will be even worse than normal.  LAX lies exactly 35 miles from our house.  On a good day, door to door is 45 minutes.  But you always allow two hours, just in cases.  

Three and a half hours it took me!  Three and a half hours to go 35 miles to LAX!  With two miles to go and traffic at a standstill, panicked passengers were emerging from their Ubers and running towards the airport with their luggage.  Adding to the mayhem, given there’s no actual path.  They were the lucky ones with just their carry-on luggage – I didn’t fancy my chances much with my super sized cruise suitcases and laptop.

Having survived the very real risk of not making it to the airport, I luckily breezed through check in (everyone else was long gone).  I breathed a sigh of relief as I realized I’d make it to the gate for boarding time.  And then came to my senses… with a ‘cheap seats’ ticket, there’s no way I’d be near the front of the queue for boarding.  Which would give me ooh, a good ten minutes to grab a glass of red in the terminal.  

With a midnight departure, I totally lucked out on the overnight portion of the flight with a three seater row to myself.  The layover was in Papeete, on the island of Tahiti.  I’m sure it’s a tropical paradise although I wouldn’t really know.  You don’t get to see too much from the inside of an airport, other than the flying in and out bit.

The first thing that hit me after arriving in Auckland a day and a half after leaving LA (that whole date line thing messes with my mind), was the somewhat Britishness of New Zealand.  There were signs for lifts and toilets, and I was quite tickled to hear the satnav in the Uber speaking in a posh English accent.

Given Darren was still off galavanting on his South Island adventure, I’d asked him to book me a nice place, well located.  He rather excelled himself actually.

I still had Monday to enjoy New Zealand’s capital city before starting work (the extra day thing again, it was still Sunday in California).  I heard exercise is good for jet lag.  And what a lovely day I had walking 12 miles across Auckland, technically kind of from one side of New Zealand to the other.

The rest of the week was quite honestly a blur of 4:30am alarm calls and long working days.

And then in flew Darren, as if to remind me that we had a vacation to go on.

Darren had booked us a sunset kayak trip on Friday evening.  Should be a nice start to the holiday!  Turns out this involved a 3+ mile kayak across open water to Rangitoto island; a picnic; a 2 hour hike up Rangitoto peak, descending at dusk; and a night paddle back in the dark, getting back around midnight.  Not quite sure where the sunset kayak bit came in.

Pretty much as soon as we launched the kayak, right into full-on wind and waves, I realized this was going to be challenging.  Of course, the front of the kayak takes the brunt of the elements. That’ll be me then.  I was soon blinded by what seemed like buckets of salt water being repeatedly thrown in my face.  The nose of the kayak see-sawed awkwardly over the crashing walls of waves, each time giving me a fresh drenching.  I did my best to continue the arm and shoulder movements but not only was I a little out of practice, I wasn’t expecting quite this level of intensity.  Meanwhile Darren was as encouraging and supportive as always, barking his orders from behind.  Something about paddling harder.

I was dreading a traumatic re-run on the return journey, especially with the stakes ramped up in the dark.  But oh what a difference in the conditions. The wind had mostly dropped and what there was, was behind us.  It was oh so peaceful, like gliding across a vast mesmerizing pool of black glass.  What felt like gentle ripples aided us from the rear, and our paddles lapped in unison.  Tiny lights onshore in the distance were all we needed to guide us.  It was approaching midnight and my body succumbed to a relaxed rhythmic trance of paddling, maybe not fully awake after a week of silly o’clock starts.  

All those lovely sunrises during the week and just our luck, Seabourn Odyssey rocks up to a grey cloudy morning.

The anticipation for this Christmas and New Year cruise had been building for some time. I was so so so nearly pencils down with work (Darren even more so!), and we were full of excitement for the next two weeks. It was a joy to step onboard and receive a friendly signature Seabourn welcome. In our suite, amid a slew of personalized Welcome Onboard notes, was a delightful platter of Christmas niceties, a bottle of red wine, a stunning bunch of flowers, and the obligatory bottle of champagne. Don’t mind if we do!

After the biking, hiking and paddling it was road trip time before heading back to Auckland.

The first stop was Queenstown where I felt I deserved a post hike soak at Onsen Hot Pools and a slap-up mean at the waterfront.

Queenstown isn’t the type of town where you get the day off from outdoor adventures so it was time to get back on the bike and go exploring. I rented a gravel bike and am thinking for sure there is space in the garage for a new style of bike as it was a lot of fun. The hill called Sharp Rise or (C**T Hill had scratched on the sign) set me up for a stop for fish and chips and then a brewery before dropping off the bike.

For the final day in Queenstown it was time to get the hiking shoes back out and tackle Ben Lomond. I think the pictures say it all for this hike. Note the scenic outhouse toilet on the way up 🙂

After the slog up Ben Lomond it was time to unwind at the waterfront with some beers in the sun and then pickup some Lamb from the famous ‘Pedros Lamb’ (famous in NZ at least!).

I had fun in Queenstown but it is well known as the adrenaline capital of the South Island and my biking and hiking didn’t quite tick the adrenaline box but this was about to change when I drove to Wanaka and signed up for a Via Ferrata adventure!

Via Ferrata (iron path in Italian) is climbing whilst clipped in to steel cables, rungs and steps (with a waterfall thrown in!). There were three options on how long you want to keep climbing with the extreme one involving 450M of climbing and it was rated as hard with warnings on exposure. I was thinking how hard can it really be and I guess they have to big it up and should be fine……

Things got ‘interesting’ after the level 1 and 2 tour groups dropped off and hiked down and just myself, the guide and one other guy (also out of his depth like me) continued up, over, through, behind and finally above the waterfall. For the next couple of hours as we continued up with exposed overhangs and sheer drops I flip flopped from this is amazing to WTF!

The good news is if you sign up for the extreme tour you get picked up at the top and helicopter back down! It was a much much much quicker trip down than it was up.

The climbing and stress of the day certainly had me burn through some calories but not to worry that lamb dish from Pedros just kept on giving for multiple nights in the camper!

First off lets set the record straight that technically it should be Milford and Doubtful Fiords rather than Sound but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. The Welsh explorer John Lort Stokes misnamed it in 1851 but the whole area was renamed Fiordland so all is good I guess.

I was lucky enough to be able to paddle both Milford and Doubtful ‘Sound’ and although they were two very different trips both were awesome.

Doubtful Sound was definitely harder work to get on the water. You start with a bus to a boat, you then take the boat across Lake Manapouri and it is time to get wet suited up. You then get onto a bus to get yourself to Doubtful Sound with a rather cool view point along the way.

Milford and Doubtful get over 23 feet of rainfall each year and are the wettest inhabited place on the planet and it lived up to the hype by the time we made it down to the water and got into our waterproofs (on top of wetsuits!).

The waterfalls really are spectacular and given how much it was raining and how wet we were we ended up just kayaking through some of the smaller falls as we hugged the coastline.

And before we repeated the bus, boat, bus trip in reverse to get back we took yet another boat ride but it was a lot quicker than paddling back!

Doubtful Sound is a remote and quiet place and our hardy group had the place to ourselves which was in contrast to the much easier to get to Milford Sound were I paddled next. Whilst it was busy in Milford Sound once we paddled out and away from the hustle and bustle of the other trips it was still an amazing experience.

The Milford Sounds trip was a much shorter trip that Doubtful and so short I hardly got any pics! But rather than resort to stock pictures of Milford Sound I will hold off as we will be coming back on the Seabourn cruise in a few weeks!

The Routeburn track is a three day hut-to-hut walk starting from near Milford Sound and crossing the Southern Alps over to the Queenstown side. As it was a two night trip it needed a two hip flask level of packing.

Day one was hiking up to Mackenzie hut and was a lovely sunny afternoon hiking through alpine gardens and waterfalls and ending with a ‘refreshing’ dip at the lake next to the hut.

Logistics can be tough with getting from the start/end of the trailhead and for having all the gear you need for a multi day hike. I opted to make it easy and used a company that relocated the camper to the end of the trailhead so it would be waiting for me as well as having them provide the backpack stocked with cooking stuff and camping food. I think it would be fair to say the food was pretty basic. When I got to the hut and saw the list of what was for dinner I was looking forward to the cheese and crackers as I had dragged some wine up. Lets just say it wasn’t a fancy cheese board style of starter….

The next morning was unfortunately not quite such a bright day. Moist airflow was the situation according to the weather report in the hut. The forecast was accurate and it was time to get the waterproofs out and trudge on to the next hut.

As I headed down to the hut it was a reminder there is very much a class system for hikers and I was not in 1st class! You pass the hut that is for the private guided hikers (table clothes, washer and dryers, non-dehydrated food!) and then get to your hut that has a bit of a laundry feel as every tries to dry out their soggy gear.

Luckily I had some spare (dry!) socks for the final days hike down to the trail head. It brought back some nice memories of when Heather and I were here on our original global adventure 20 years ago and we did this stretch as an out and back day hike. Luckily today it didn’t snow this time.

My exploring of the South Island started with a five day Alps 2 Ocean bike ride which goes from Mt Cook down to Oamaru on the coast. It was a perfect way to unwind from work and get into a breakfast, ride, lunch, ride, beer, dinner, bed and repeat mode!

Day one starts up at Mt Cook and follows the glacier moraine bumpy track along the shoreline of the turquoise waters of Lake Pukaki. There is the small issue of the glacier fed Tasman River being in the way and the lack of a bridge. This was easily enough worked around by a helicopter trip! After this trip I firmly believe every bike ride should start with a helicopter ride.

Despite a rainy start to the day, it soon cleared up and I had some nice clear views of Mt Cook to distract me from the rocky ride. The gravel track finally gave way to some nice single track, with a cool little detour to the Mt Cook salmon shop. I was very much ready for a few beers and a nice curry when I finally made it to Twizel to spend the night.

The rest of the trip had scenery changes throughout the day as I left the alpine scenery of Mt Cook and went through farmlands, winelands, lakes and eventually hit the sea. It was a fun mix of tracks, single track and quiet country roads.

Five days of this and it was nice to roll into the victorian styled seaside town of Oamaru. After hitting the must do photo frame at the finish line, there was a brewery straight over the road 🙂

It was fun bumping into other cyclists and groups along with way that were doing various different options and different numbers of days on the Alps 2 Ocean route. I was lucky enough to get adopted by Jon and Karen that were visiting from Oz and doing the same route. We would leap frog each other as we made various pie and pint stops during the day but it mean’t I never had to drink alone in the evening! Cheers guys and thanks!!