OurGlobalAdventure

Heather and Darren's Travels

Category: 2021 PNW Road Trip (Page 1 of 2)

And That’s Road Trip #3 in the Bag

I’ve broken my own cardinal rule around not being able to head off on the next trip until I’ve finished the blog from the last one. But you know, life got in the way – like the whole being 50 thing (which consumed a lot of mental energy!).

Anyway, better late than never, here’s the round up of the rest of Colorado and our last week of the Pacific Northwest ++ trip.

Colorado has the craziest weather. Take our stop at this Harvest Host on the outskirts of Denver. When we arrived, we opted to sit inside as it was 90 degrees out and felt ridiculously hot. We took a window seat with a view. Within half an hour or so, the temp had dropped just a little, maybe 5 degrees, and some ominous grey clouds were gathering. And then just like that, it started hail stoning. Like proper hard packed shards of ice torpedoing down from above. Very crazy indeed.

While El Rancho brewing wasn’t our ideal type of brewery, it served us well in providing WiFi, shelter (from the heat and the hail!), and overnight parking. But way more up our alley was an overnight stay near Avery Brewing in Boulder. We braved an outside table in the heat here, relieved as it was with misters spraying into the air to cool the punters. Ahhhh!

Also while in Boulder, the bikes got an airing on the Boulder Creek/Boulder Canyon trail.

As we all know, every good bike ride should include beer and pizza

As we continued our travels, we had to pass our favorite distillery, Stoneyard, such a convenient location to drop in on the east west I80.

They had recently bottled a new concoction: Cacao de los Muertos, with a whopping 88% alcohol or 176 proof (as a comparison, most single malts sit around 43%). But strength is nothing without flavor. And the chocolate hit you get from this baby slaps you around the face while you’re still reeling from the alcohol content. Think pipette level portion sizes. And the perfect nearly 50th birthday pressie 🙂

Seriously awesome spirit in a seriously awesome bottle!
We don’t always stop at distilleries en route, it’s far more common for us to stop at coffee shops, like in Longmont on the way to Boulder.

This time, Stoneyard was just a flying visit, as D was driving and we needed to get to our next working location. Pretty glad we didn’t hang around the distillery for too long because it was back to Colorado’s crazy weather… as we continued west, our journey was marred with fog and spray from the traffic in front of us in the increasingly sodden conditions.

And less than 30 minutes behind us, the fire-eroded banks at the side of the freeway could hold up no longer, creating a massive mudslide onto the freeway. The torrent of rain continued, making recovery efforts impossible and any through traffic faced an unpredictable night waiting to see if they could get through the next day… or a 250 mile detour. Phew, just dodged that bullet!

The last week of our trip was spent in Basalt, near Aspen. As I’m sure you can imagine, Darren and I spend a lot of time together on these trips. So we mixed it up a bit on Sunday with a his n hers You do your thing/I’ll do mine. Darren spent the day mountain biking and dropped me off to hike 10 miles to the pub where we would meet up. Woefully the nachos at the brewery were sub-par but the hike itself, just gorgeous.

Taking a well earned break along the way
And from Darren
Luckily anything tastes ok when you’re that hungry

Hipcamp is a website or app similar to Airbnb but for camping. In other words, private families rent out their land for you to camp on. We scored with a lovely secluded spot on farmland, cows and horses for neighbors, chickens freely scratching around and wildlife wandering past including deer and elk.

We squeezed a fair amount into our last week – biking, hiking and eating out.

Morning bike path ride before work
Biked to the brewery in the evening for some awesome crispy confit duck and charred brussels with Parmesan and chilli
Somehow we never made it here! Too many options and not enough time.
Even though we were a long way from the east coast, the Maine lobster roll was delicious
I mean seriously good!!! Not complaining that it came with crisps either.
On the other hand, another dining out option was not so inspirational. Jalapeño poppers were for some reason covered in multi-colored crushed tortilla chips.
Like WTF??? I’d like to have a word with whoever dreamed that up and thought it would look appetizing on a plate.
Luckily there was some hiking involved too

Independence Day meant we had a long weekend to get home, so we’d planned on more alpine meadow play on Saturday morning before setting off home. That was until we got a phone call on Friday afternoon telling us we were supposed to have left our camping spot already and there was another couple waiting. Oops. Last minute change of plan – we decided to get some miles in on Friday night, and headed west to Fruita.

So the last night of our trip was spent in 100 degree heat at a noisy truck stop. Not quite what we’d planned but didn’t stop us getting the full charcuterie platter works out. Got a few double takes from the truckers but c’est la vie.

Classy

All that remained was a 760 mile drive home. What a long tiring day that was! But worth it to close out yet another epic road trip. In total over 4,000 miles through 10 US states.

Route map showing location for each week of our 14 week trip.
And that’s a wrap!

Fantabulous Frisco, our happy place

Another stint back in Frisco, Colorado means we’ve spent 6 weeks hanging around this awesome scenic backwater over the last year, almost as much time as we’ve spent at home in California! I guess this is our second or wannabe home.

One of the many joys of camping in Frisco is that you’re immersed in the most incredible scenery. I’m a sucker for lakes and mountains and so indeed, in my element.

Our first camping spot at Peak One campground was nestled amongst the pines on the peninsula, with oodles of space. We made the most of the light evenings and rather excelled ourselves on the bbq front.

Lobster tail kebabs and Mexican lager with lime & sea salt
And as the daylight faded, we hardly noticed the large cloud over the hill starting to billow and stretch out
…Until it turned into this!
View from the inside out…
Adventure Inspired By Airstream
#not photoshopped, no need for photoshop
And not another cloud in the sky
Such an incredible sight, we were quite blown away

And can you believe that we were so intent on trying to capture a photo that we somehow forgot to get a video for the 1SE 🙄

Camping spot number two, just a few hundred yards down the road, dialed back on space and privacy but the upside was a prime lakefront spot. We twirled the Basecamp around to make the most of the views (technically Darren did the twirling, I was in observation/filming mode – didn’t want to miss another video opportunity).

The BaseCamp is fifth from the right, overlooking the water. Bit of a car park type arrangement, but worth it for this view
Our bbq spot for week two: I’ll take it

EVO3 workspace required all attendees to be vaccinated. No arguments from us. This meant all restrictions were off, no masks required, desk configuration normal, and yet a healthy abundance of Clorox wipes and sanitizing gel. At one point, a potential new member walked in off the street, proudly bearing a Stars and Stripes t-shirt, and no mask. He huffed and puffed and did a double take when he saw the ‘vaccinated only’ sign. He then about turned and waltzed out, but not before loudly proclaiming that he didn’t want to be part of “the experiment”. Whatever, good luck to you dude!

Pre-work morning recreation was mainly hiking on the peninsula or biking on the peninsula. We mixed it up on the commute into work too – walking, biking and paddle boarding.

But let’s get our priorities straight… need a cuppa before we’re going anywhere
Local hiking
The bike path into work
All ready to set off for the morning commute via the lake
Off he goes
And there he is, heading into work
(well I thought it was him, actually kind of difficult to tell from that distance. But then who else is paddle boarding into work at that time???)

Post-work recreation involved a lot of bbqs at our campsite (why waste that view!). Oh, and sausages.

Belgian style beer and a sausage tasting platter at Prosit
Not all sunny and gorgeous. But then what better excuse for a campfire 🔥
Wet outdoors. Cozy in the BaseCamp.
And when you get a break in the weather at dusk, best make the most of it and get out there for a quick paddle

As we were in Frisco for a couple of weeks, we had various neighbors come and go at the campsite. Including a rowdy group of guys camping in a tent next door. We were not impressed with the state of their camp when we woke up in the morning. I don’t think they get out much.

A small group of us from the co-working office spent a fab evening on Aaron’s boat (the guy who runs EVO3), cruising around the lake and stopping off at a Tiki Bar at Dillon waterfront. There was much talk and hype leading up to our arrival at the Tiki Bar and as such I had high expectations. I’m thinking Hawaiian theming with palm trees and gaudy decor. Waitresses with grass skirts and leis. And I’m thinking exotic cocktails with paper cocktail umbrellas and Easter Island statue mugs.

What we got was a container bar that looked more at home on an industrial estate, and cocktails in plastic glasses.

Still, I’m not complaining, can’t beat a sundowner cocktail with a waterfront view, umbrella or no umbrella.

Not quite what we had planned
Still… cocktails in the sun 😊
Just cruising, let’s go….
Watching the sky and the reflections on the water change was a treat
And what mini-cruise is complete without a charcuterie and cheese board: sharp cheddar, cambazola, drunken goat and gooey-as-you-like brie; jamon serrano, chorizo and lomo, accompanied by golden pepadews, dried fruit, mango habanero jelly, crusty bread and salty crackers 😋

A two week stint meant we had a full weekend in between to play with, and no road trip miles to rack up. We packed it in with hiking, biking, kayaking, two breweries and the world’s highest distillery.

Hike #1: Aquaduct trail near Keystone. There was some drizzle in the air. I didn’t want to get rained on. Hence the luminous jacket.
Darren braved it in his t-shirt regardless
The ride: Gotta check out those straws. Modeled on Aspen tree trunks, how cool is that! Cooler than the cocktails it turns out. These ones were really bad. They redeemed themselves with others below. ⬇️
Way to combine cycling, cocktails and beer.
And just gotta accept that cycling means bad hair day.

Weekend walk #2 was the iconic ‘must do’ up Mount Royal, steep as it gets. Little did we know we’d need our Bear Grylls survival skills.

Working our way up the winding switchbacks through bold green aspens and pine forest, we stopped in the shade for a breather and a swig of water. Good job we did. Bold as brass, less than 50 yards ahead of us, out pops a black bear, strolls across the path and then saunters on his way, without so much as a glance in our direction.

Bear-close-encounter over, we continued on our way. It’s a steep old slog up Mt Royal but worth it for the views.

Still hot and sunny but starting to cloud over
View from the top of Mt Royal back down to Frisco

As we approached the summit of Mt Royal, we could see storm clouds a gathering, and out of nowhere, a howling wind threatened to blow us off the mountain ridge. But it was when we saw the lightning on the next mountain over that we realized we’d better get a wiggle on. The highest point for miles around is probably not where you want to be when lightning is on the cards.

Just one quick selfie and let’s get the hell outta here. I’d say my smile is verging on gritted teeth,
Phew… back in Frisco, safe and sound. Bears, gale force winds and lightning averted, we celebrated the joy of our existence with a beer. With a nice view of where we’d just been.

And one of the highlights of Frisco is getting out onto the water on your own steam. Bring on the kayak rental, a gorgeous early morning to get out onto the lake, and unleash the drone.

Lakes, mountains and solitude. Our happy place indeed.

Wyoming Part 2

Grubbiness be gone. Wallowing in the hot springs in Thermopolis (city and state park in one) was a relaxing, warming, cleansing experience. Allegedly the world’s largest mineral hot springs, although I googled it and it would seem it’s not the only hot springs to lay claim to that title. (If you’re interested, the two other main contenders seemed to be Frying Pan Springs, near Rotarua, New Zealand and Glenwood Hot Springs in Colorado, US).

“World’s largest mineral hot springs“ – it says so on the mountain, so it must be true

Our search for middle of nowhere camping continued. As the drone shows, we rather excelled ourselves in Boysen state park with a scenic spot by the reservoir, otherwise deserted for miles around.

Teeny tiny BC on the reservoir peninsula. Just us and a whole lot of nothin’.

Such a photogenic spot to try to capture the lovely fading dusk light and the sunset.

What else you gonna do but get the bbq out?
Meanwhile, Darren tried to capture me capturing the perfect shot
I just need somewhere to put my wine glass…
Rather proud of this one ☝️

Our last week in Wyoming was spent in Laramie. Camping for the week was a standard pack-em-in KOA RV park so nothing special, but worked out just fine. Some nice skies here too.

Hard at it in the Durlacher co-working space

It didn’t take long to realize that wall art on buildings in downtown Laramie is a thing. So much so, they even have a suggested do it yourself tour to see the main murals. The recommended route spans maybe a mile and a half as it sweeps back and forward taking in the sights, and get this, it was suggested as a driving tour. Wow, they must be expecting some seriously lazy tourists in Laramie.

The Route
Seriously colorful
And there’s more
And just when you thought you were done
And I think my favorite 👆

And there’s no forgetting you’re still in Wyoming.

Could be worse, could be a hoard of marauding kids after you instead of a cowboy

Laramie gave us some decent walking with the Cirrus Sky trail and the nearby Medicine Bow national forest.

Bring on the spring wildflowers on the Cirrus Sky trail
No Moose Lake, Medicine Bow National Forest
Escaped the KOA to boondock a night here
Think it was a bit chilly and windy.
Don’t think Darren wanted to stand around waiting for me to take a pic.

We also checked out Vedauwoo (still struggling with the pronunciation on that one), a scenic area with striking rock formations. It reminded us of Joshua Tree National Park (without the Joshua trees).

Spot the Hamilton, camouflaged amongst the rocks
You’d never even know I was there
Solo climber tops out on the far right rock

And just like that – with Yellowstone, Cody and Laramie down it was time to say our goodbyes to Wyoming, next stop Colorado.

Laramie: Done ✅

Welcome to America!

“Is there anyone from Texas out there?” hollered the rodeo compere. Small sections of the crowd yelled acknowledgment. “Howdy y’all!”.

“Anyone from Minnesota here tonight?” A similar response from the crowd and a warm greeting from the compere: “How y’all doin’?”

“Any Californians out there?” Roar of approval and enthusiastic foot stomping from the audience. “Hey you Californians, welcome to America!”

“And welcome y’all to Cody, Wyoming, Rodeo capital of the world!!!”

Being at a rodeo felt just so delightfully and stereotypically American. Gutted I didn’t have my cowboy hat with me. And you’ve gotta love how the US claim global dominance in a field that barely exists outside its boundaries. Still, we were in cowboy country and we were embracing it.

I wasn’t quite sure what to expect from a rodeo. From bucking broncos to bull riding, and steer wrestling to barrel racing, it was certainly entertaining. There were some spectacular falls and more lassos than you could shake a stick at.

But the highlight of the night was when all the kids in the audience (aged 12 and under) were invited into the arena. The host patiently explained what would happen next. Two cows with red ribbons attached to their tails would be released into the arena. The children’s task would be to remove said ribbons from said cows’ tails (while leaving the tails themselves on the cows). With a smirk and a raised eyebrow, I caught Darren’s eye as we wondered what they were really going to do.

Sure enough, into the stadium came two (not full grown) cows, flashes of red visible on their tails. Bring on the It’s a Knockout/Hunger Games version of Pin The Tail on the Donkey. The crowd of marauding kids ran like zombies on a mission to chase the cows down. And those cows weren’t hanging around.

I was quite relieved when two young boys emerged victorious, claimed their prize of a free burger & fries and just like that, the stampede was over. Wonder what the cows had to say to each other before they retired for the night?

One of the hunted cows being chased down by the zombie kids

The Wild West theme continued into our campsite, perched above Buffalo Bill reservoir just a few miles out of Cody, in Buffalo Bill State Park. Fab spot to spend a week, and we even inadvertently met up with another BaseCamp.

Some of our morning walks took us into what felt like the heart of cowboy country.

Those horses perched on the ridge looked like they belonged in a John Wayne move (but were actually tourists on a trail ride)
Cedar Mountain
Along the Shoshone river to Buffalo Bill dam
There’s always one…!
Sweetwater trail

And we couldn’t leave Cody without experiencing the old town street gunfight, apparently “this free & entertaining shoot-out is listed as a ‘must see’ on the list of things to do in Cody”. We armed ourselves with a beer from the historic Buffalo Bill’s Irma hotel but even that couldn’t save what at best was a tragically amateur performance.

Nevertheless, I certainly felt like I came, I saw and I experienced Cody cowboy country.

Helena & Yellowstone

Helena is the state capital of Montana, who knew. Formerly a gold rush town in the late 1800s, it is now an unassuming college town with a population around 30,000.

Notably, we arrived in Helena prior to Memorial Day weekend, when spring turns to summer across the US and with a flick of a switch every man and his dog want to go camping. For this very reason, we’d already made reservations for all of June. But for now, in Helena, we thought we’d be good.

Our Monday morning commute into Helena with a fresh dump of snow
After a big storm the day before
….luckily we were holed up for the night at a Harvest Host, Big Sky Brewing
Brightened up in Helena.
Impressive building-size mural at the bus stop

We rocked up on Monday night after work to the Lewis & Clark County Fairgrounds. Side note, a fairground over here has nothing to do with roller coasters, Ferris wheels and bumper cars. It’s more what we call a showground in the UK. They often have a rural campground and are generally centrally located to boot.

Unfortunately for us, the campground was roped off and the place was deserted. We pulled over to consider what plan B might be. Out of nowhere, a security guard zoomed over in his car with flashing yellow lights. Uh-oh, are we in trouble?

The guy could not have been more helpful. He opened up the campground for us, explaining that they rope it off to stop the boy racers using it as a midnight racetrack.

For us, it turned out to be a very spacious, tranquil spot for the week.

The whole campsite to ourselves

Helena had its fair share of morning walks to choose from, with flat calm lakes and open meadows in Spring Meadow State Park, and a steep ascent up Mount Helena, with fantastic 360 views.

Spring Meadow State Park
Mount Helena, so good we did it twice

The co-working space was abuzz with the latest headline on the local news site: Two moose take a stroll through Helena fairgrounds. Of course not while we were in the vicinity, but maybe the BaseCamp saw them wander past.

“A cow and calf moose cross Horseshoe Bend Road on Tuesday morning as they exit the Lewis and Clark County Fairgrounds in Helena”. Photo courtesy of local Helena news.

Obviously, we made it to a couple of local craft breweries in Helena: Ten Mile Creek and Lewis & Clark brewing.

Yes! I escaped all that beer and made it to a wine bar, the rather excellent Hawthorn. Wine and crisps makes for a happy chick 🙂
And just in case you’re thinking it’s all fun and games and wine and beer,
the reality of life on the road also includes hanging out in launderettes

The Beartooth Scenic Highway climbs over 5,000 ft through the Rockies, winding its way through lodgepole pine forests with switchbacks to rival the most precarious mountain roads in the Swiss Alps. Not quite our most direct route south after leaving Helena but hey, this is supposed to be a road trip. And we were in luck, the road had just opened for the season the day before.

And what a stunning snowfield drive it was!

All that remained was to find a boondocking spot for the night (ideally somewhere slightly warmer than the Beartooth pass), and chill out by the river.

Early start to hit Yellowstone the next day, to hopefully get there before the multitude of other holiday weekend tourists. It was below freezing, and for some reason Darren chose to de-ice the truck windows in his t-shirt.

Pretty drive into Yellowstone with the dawn light

The Lamar Valley in Yellowstone never disappoints. More than its fair share of bison and at this time of year, cute little calves lolloping along trying to keep up with the herd.

No wolves on our hike in the valley, but plenty of bison and pronghorn deer.

Switched out the woolly hat for a cap, as the day started to thaw

After an hour’s drive into the park and a six mile hike, it was time for breakfast. Found a quiet spot, and out came the grill.

Mouth full “back off, I just want to get stuck in”

With the remaining drive south through the National Park, that’s when we hit The Real Yellowstone. Otherwise known as The Bison Traffic Jam. Anyone would think they own the place.

Glacier Backcountry

Because the nature of our nomadic lifestyle revolves around finding co-working offices (not to mention breweries), we inevitably find ourselves in proper campgrounds. Some times we get lucky camping in a state park by the lake, but then you can’t beat a good boondocking spot in the middle of nowhere.

After leaving Whitefish, we found ourselves an awesome remote spot for the weekend. On the far side of the river: Glacier National Park. On our side of the river: National Forest land, home to the most perfect rustic camping spot, right on the riverbank, surrounded by nature.

This’ll do nicely, thank you very much
… and relax… just chilling by the river
Although best not to chill too much, there’s clean bullet holes through the pit-toilet window

With a little stone fire ring already in place, Darren thought it would be a shame to waste it, even though it was still pretty warm out.

And then the sky itself caught fire.

After a week of nightly rumbling, screeching and earthquake-like vibrations in Whitefish, it was such a relief to not be within earshot of those damn trains. Although as far as a good night’s sleep was concerned, the local mice had other ideas. So much smaller than a train but just as mighty. Been there, done that, not going to regale you with any more mouse trapping stories.

Talking of wildlife, we spotted a moose the next day on our way into the park.

Not quick enough to get the moose shot.
So here’s a very photogenic deer instead.

The scenery on the way into the park was rugged. The stalwart tree remnants of a 2001 forest fire stood sentry, like proud steel-grey spears of invisible soldiers.

OK Canada, we get it, you’re just rubbing it in now.
Misty & atmospheric first thing in the morning

Polebridge was the only two shop stop town between us and Glacier NP. Like a one horse town, only smaller. It consisted of 1) the Polebridge Mercantile, proudly established in 1914, selling huckleberry bear claws and other freshly baked goods along with anything else you might want, including locally made Montana mustard or a stuffed mountain goat head.

And 2) The Northern Lights Saloon.

…which turned out to be closed. We were a week too early, damnit.

And so, Glacier National Park, here we come. (Again)

Darren joyfully anticipating the day ahead

The previous weekend we’d done one of the most stunning bike rides ever, in Glacier NP. This weekend, the hike we did in the park could be categorized as not the most stunning hike ever, in fact maybe even the most underwhelming hike of the trip.

It started off promising, with lovely views as we set off from Bowman Lake. Little did we know they were the best (pretty much the only) views we’d get on the whole walk to Lower Quartz Lake and back.

The main problem was fallen trees. To the extent it felt more like an obstacle course than a hike.

The smaller/lower ones (unfortunately a tiny minority), you could merely step over. Job done, no big deal, what you whinging about.

Just a little tiddler, even I could manage that one with a smile

Most however, required various levels of clambering, arms and legs akimbo, trying to avoid the snapped off branch stumps and knots in precarious places. I am not bendy, supple or good at climbing. I am also not quiet when it comes to expressing my dissatisfaction.

Yet other ‘Tree Blocked Trail’ obstacles required limboing under or crawling under, getting way too up close and personal with the other creepy crawlies on the forest floor. At least I had the upper hand over Darren here, my short legs and frame for once an advantage.

When all else failed and it was impossible to go over or under, the only remaining option was to go around, bushwhacking through the jungle (technically the forest but it felt as dense, impenetrable and inhospitable as a jungle).

Not impressed

To distract from this nonsense on the way back, we decided to count the fallen tree obstacles, coming up with a song with the relevant number in the lyrics. Play along with me then… 🎶

1, 2, 3, easy peasy, starting with Robbie Williams “She’s the One”, then Rolf Harris “Two little boys had two little toys”. Followed by “Three blind mice” (and Three Times a Lady… but quite honestly, once I had three blind mice playing on repeat in my head, it took a momentous effort to move on). Got stuck on six, and felt obliged to loosen the rules to allow ‘similar’ words. What should come to mind but Right Said Fred’s “I’m too Sexy for my …”

With cheat rules enabled, we fared quite well up to nineteen “N-n-n-n-nineteen”. After that, the trees were coming thick and fast, erm, the song lyrics not so much. Should have realized we were on to a loser, I mean who sings about 27, let alone 32. Yes indeed, a total of 32 fallen trees. That’s 8 per mile. Or a total of 64 damn trees to negotiate on the full out and back route. (🎵 When I’m 64…)

What we needed after all that palaver was a wee dram to take away the pain. Well, would you look at that, Glacier Distilling. Don’t mind if I do.

Totally looking forward to going to work on Monday if it means not climbing over/under/around any more trees!

Mountains in Montana

Going To The Sun Road meanders through the rocky mountains of Glacier National Park, Montana, crossing through the Continental Divide via Logan Pass, at over 6,500ft elevation. It’s a bucket list item for many with exceptional views.

While some of the lower sections remain open year round, the higher elevation road is closed due to snowfall for most of the year. It doesn’t fully open to drive through the park until late June/early July, depending on weather conditions and ploughing progress. However, there’s a magic window of opportunity in the Spring when it’s part ploughed and open to bikes only. And we found ourselves there in just that window. Anyone would think we’d planned it.

No need for words, the pictures give the full picture. And there’s no shortage of pictures.

Driving through Glacier before the ride, Lake McDonald
Picture perfect
Before the uphill slog
Stopping for a breather
Meanwhile Darren took a side trip up a gravel path by the river
Darren had to wait for me a few times.
The elevation gain from Avalanche to The Loop was around 1,000ft.
Along the way was a tunnel with arched windows giving glimpses of the forest/mountain views. I forged my way through the wall of water for this shot.
Looking back through the waterfall to Darren inside the tunnel
The end of the road
The car park at The Loop was chockablock with bikes, about three quarters of them electric. Pedal power all the way for us, coming down was a bit faster than going up!
Riding through Glacier was absolutely one of the highlights of this whole trip!

Just a hop, skip and a jump from Glacier NP in northwest Montana is the resort town of Whitefish. A cool place to spend the week, and no shortage of scenery and awesome walks here to fit in around work.

Lion Mountain trail
Whitefish Valley lookout
Little National Forest animal (not quite sure what) begging for donations

The co-working office in the heart of downtown Whitefish was a home away from home – it was actually called Basecamp.

Got myself a little friend in the office

Whitefish marked the two week point after our J&J vaccination and one week after the CDC announced that masks were no longer required for vaccinated people inside as well as outside. At this point, around 40% of the US population was fully vaccinated. But looking around, there was no way 60% of people were wearing masks. Maybe 5% tops.

So basically the CDC’s attempt to incentivize vaccinations by relaxing the rules for vaccinated people backfired. American businesses threw their hands in the air and their toys out of the pram and said we can’t possibly police this. Virtually overnight, it was as if Covid-19 never existed and masks were a thing of the past. Here’s hoping the third wave isn’t just around the corner.

Meanwhile, we settled into our shady woodland campsite at Whitefish Lake State Park. Nice enough little spot, apart from the slight issue of the trains. The train track was mere inches from the BaseCamp. Which meant inches from my head. Trains in the US are ridiculously long and run at all times of the day and night. Each and every one felt like a powerful earthquake, both inside and outside my head. In short, not a good week’s sleep.

Trains, trains and more trains
Bbq time
Darren doing Happy Hour by the lake
Dusk at the lake gave an allure of peaceful tranquility (in between trains)

And for the birthday boy, no birthday is complete without a brewery. One by one, Darren’s years-old triathlon and event t-shirts are gradually being replaced by brewery attire. He continued this trend with a little number from Bonsai Brewing Project.

Good birthday food and drink also came in the form of Amazing Crepes for brunch. And literally the BEST tacos outside of Mexico, accompanied by jalapeño margaritas.

Happy birthday Darren!!!

CDA, Idaho

I am getting so shamefully far behind with this blog, I can barely remember this far back! So this one could be relatively brief.

We breathed in the last of the salty Pacific North West air and left the ocean behind us for the rest of the trip. As we drove east through Washington state, the Snoqualmie Pass gave us a taste of fresh snow before we hit sunnier skies, continuing into Idaho. Not the potato-laden Idaho of the south, think more mountains, lakes and trees-Idaho.

Road trip!

Just as I thought my tush was recovering from the Seattle bike ride a week ago, here comes another bike ride to put it to the test. A forty miler this time, not insignificant on a mountain bike, even if it was on paved bike paths. The Trail of the Coeur D’Alenes took us from Heyburn State Park, over Chatcolet Lake by way of a super cool mile long pedestrian/bike only bridge. Fantastic lake and mountain views the whole way.

A fun ride
You can just about make out the Chatcolet Lake bridge in the background
Not another bridge

The Cycle Haus coffee shop in quaint Harrison was a thankful sight along the way.

Best not to argue

Our home for the week was Blackwell Island RV park in Coeur D’Alene – CDA for short. Lots of other RVs thought it was a good spot to hang out too, a bigger and busier campsite than our recent hangouts. Almost a lakeside view and lots of migrating north-bound Canadian geese for company (they can go where us mere non-Canadian humans can not).

Who on earth thought of the speed limit for the campsite?
Maybe the geese. Slow down, goslings crossing…
We had a nice open site and lovely evenings, perfect for hanging out after work
“More beer, please”

Tubbs Hill was centrally located in downtown CDA, with lots of trails to choose from for our morning walks.

Action shot on the bouncy bridge
The friendliest moose in town

In contrast to the bustling friendly co-working space in Bainbridge, R Mutual Space office in CDA had all the privacy we could want, as we had our own office. Other co-workers were few and far between. Probably a good thing as the only ones who took up residence for a day in the next office had guns holstered on their belts and chanted prayers before starting their meeting.

Didn’t manage to get a photo from our visit to Jeremiah Johnson brewing company in CDA, other than this. Can attest to their beer though, especially the Mountain Man scotch ale.

Looking for a change of scenery on Friday night, we drove a little further north to a small town called Sandpoint. There were no No Camping or No Overnight Parking signs at the City Beach, which was in walking distance of a couple of breweries. We had read some reviews that warned of boy racers using the car park to do laps, but things were relatively quiet as we snuck back into the BaseCamp after visiting the breweries, trying to keep a low profile.

Looks like a nice idyllic spot for the night
Sandpoint’s version of the Statue of Liberty.
Pretty cool, although a little smaller than the NYC version.
Matchwood Brewing, Sandpoint
Utara Brewing, friendly local atmosphere

In the morning, Darren squinted through the front window, trying to work out what foreign object lay on the back of the truck. Oh, it’s an egg. Or what remains of it. Seems the local sport is target practice, throwing eggs at trucks.

Ho hum, could have been worse, tis but a flesh wound.

Off to the car wash we go then
Sandpoint redeemed itself with the Mickinnick Trail

Classic Pacific North West

One of the main draws of the Olympic peninsula in the Pacific North West is Olympic National Park. One of my favorite hikes ever lives here, along Hurricane ridge with sweeping mountain, rainforest and ocean views dropping from both sides of the ridge. Should have done our research though… this early in the year, it’s still snowbound. We were vaguely optimistic about getting a view from the car park perhaps. Unfortunately, the weather had other ideas, and a three hour each way drive was looking less attractive in layers of heavy cloud.

We settled instead for a hike in Miller Peninsula State Park. Ticked the rainforest box, and brought us out onto a very cool pebble beach with a view not that different to Port Townsend actually.

Our late lunch reward was Dungeness crab. I’ve heard of Dungeness crab and for some reason I thought it was from Scotland. Turns out Dungeness is a little town right here in Washington. More to the point, it’s the name of the local species of crab. The crabmeat was sweet, delicate and delicious (although personally I could do without all that faffing with nutcrackers for the crab legs, had to have a bit of help from my friends, thanks Darren).

Darren made me play a bit of disc golf on the way back.
Not sold on the whole thing.

We spent a night at North 47 Brewing, one of our Harvest Host hosts (albeit it was really just more of a public car park with a reduced chance of being moved on overnight by the police).

Darren and I had a big discussion as to why the brewery was called North 47, which resulted in me getting a derisory revision lesson on longitude and latitude. A bit of googling revealed that even though it felt like we were super far north in the US, we were still 2 degrees south of Paris! Who knew.

In fact we’re so far north in the US, we’re practically in Canada. We could almost smell Canada. We could certainly see it. Unfortunately Canada hasn’t relaxed its stance on not letting the riffraff in, so no Alaska road trip for us. 😢 Guess we’ll just have to put up with the Pacific North West, sigh, hard life.

So near and yet so far. The phone carrier is now working for the Canadian tourist board. Just cruel!

Our last week in the PNW was spent on the small rural island of Bainbridge, a stone’s throw from Seattle. Over the last five years, I’ve been up to Seattle to visit our corporate offices almost once a month, so it’s like a second home to me. After a year and a half of pandemic-driven absence, it felt quite nostalgic to be back.

At the weekend, we took the ferry from Bainbridge to Seattle with our bikes. There was quite a hairy point at boarding where we were directed up the short steep ramp to the top deck with no notice. Heart in my mouth, I downshifted at lightning speed and by some slim miracle, I stayed wide-eyed, upright and in motion. Not my favorite bit.

The Bainbridge Seattle ferry
Abandoned the bikes on deck in search of somewhere warmer to spend the crossing

Once we got to Seattle, the ride was mostly along bike paths, thumbs up. Although someone up there inadvertently set the wind chill to ‘Alaska’ setting, very glad I had my new bike jacket.

Like all good bike rides, it involved pizza and beer. Serious Pie delivered on all counts with their fennel sausage pizza. I have to say though, as a Brit I still struggle with pie. Pie is not pizza. Pizza is pizza and pie is pie. The word pie conjures up first savory: meat and potato pie, steak and kidney pie, I could go on. Failing that, you have pudding: apple pie and any other selection of fruit pies (which should of course be accompanied by custard). But pizza as pie? How did we get here?

Bye bye Seattle 👋
Taking a breather in Bainbridge on the way back,
downtown Seattle in the distance

The Office XPats office on Bainbridge was fun. Who’d have thought they would have a co-working space on a little island? Not only that, we weren’t the only ones there. It was a friendly atmosphere and they even had a happy hour (to put this in context, in 9 months of co-working this was our first happy hour!). During which, we were turned into minor celebrities for our traveling lifestyle. Not only that, we featured in their member newsletter.

Headline news, The Hamiltons hit Office XPats
Nice waterfront stroll near the co-working office

Got our rainforest fix in here on Bainbridge too. Grand Forest turned out to be just that.

While not directly on the waterfront like Port Townsend, the Fay Bainbridge Park campsite in Bainbridge wasn’t too far off. Salty sea air, a pebble beach and driftwood, lots of it. Fun for chilling, for grilling, and strolling.

Cozy camping spot, nestled amongst the trees
Peek-a-boo
That sky!
I have no clue. A new trend perhaps?
Nope, still not got a scooby
Not a real one

The campsite was also the perfect place to catch up with fellow Brits who live on Bainbridge island, Richard and Lynne. If there’s one thing that’s lacking in our lives right now, it’s genuine in-person human connection. We layered up and braved the elements for a bbq and catchup. Such a fun night, despite the unintended yet inexcusable error in spiking drinks (all me, sorry again!)!

With Bosun, the most photogenic (not to mention well-behaved) dog ever
Out of all present, why is it always me who looks the most drunk?
Cheers!!!

Probably the biggest milestone on the trip so far was getting our Covid vaccination. Eligibility in the US had just opened up to all adults, more importantly all states were on a level playing field and no need to be resident in the state. We booked online for the Johnson & Johnson vaccine, turned up at the pharmacy at the allotted time, offered up the sacrificial arm, and Bingo. Free to live a normal life. Well almost, just need a two week incubation and for the rest of the world to catch up.

Meanwhile, just one last beer and pizza in Seattle
My new name: Heather Potato

Stepping Back in Time in Port Townsend

Port Townsend is proper old school. As a Victorian seaport, It’s one of those quaint charming places that make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. (And of course I’m singing Kylie now). There are no chain stores here – this place is full of one man band boutiques selling jewelry, books, antiques and ice cream. They have a shop that sells nothing but spices and tea. And not forgetting the record shop. You know you’re onto a winner when they have a record shop.

Port Townsend definitely over-indexes on art galleries and vintage clothing. The alluring sign in one of the shop windows offered Nautical, Victorian, Steampunk and Pirate. And I’m pretty sure it wasn’t a fancy dress shop. Eclectic, unique and retro-uncool yet cool, I’d say it’s impossible to not like PT.

The CoLab co-working office, upstairs in the red brick building with the big windows, masquerading as a theatre

We started off with a treasure hunt come trivia hunt, really just an excuse to wander purposefully instead of aimlessly around downtown PT. As part of this you had to take and upload certain pictures and the app would recognize the correct object in the shot (or who knows, maybe it could be a picture of your gran on the toilet and it would still tell you Congratulations! and give you the next clue). I have to say there was a fair bit of cheat googling going on.

After various find this building, name that building, things were looking up when we were told to find some sea otters (could the app have an in-built wildlife tracker?). After a bit of directional searching, we found them. Port Townsend’s equivalent of The Little Mermaid. Statuesque, quite endearing but definitely not going anywhere.

Later, as we strolled around the campsite, a family of not one, not two but five sea otters crossed our path. Real ones this time! They slunk along, dancing intertwined, rolling over each other like acrobats in a circus act. I looked up the collective noun for otters. Turns out it’s a romp of otters, which sums them up perfectly. All they were missing was a backdrop of comedy Benny Hill music.

Check out this little romp

Our camping spot for the week was just the best. Our site was right on the waterfront, and we were able to park the BaseCamp facing right out onto the ocean. Kept me busy trying to capture the awesomeness of the sky in the BC windows.

This is but a sample. I’d love to capture it through the seasons.

One of my favorite things about the BaseCamp is cooking with a view. I pottered around the BC kitchen, while Darren braved the elements in his Seabourn jacket. I ventured out now and again for photo opportunities.

The BaseCamp kitchen as a blank canvas. That view!
Skate wing with brown butter & caper sauce
His n hers view.
A splash of spring color, just steps from the BC

We had no clue there was a blue SuperMoon coming – now that’s what I call nice timing. There we were enjoying the dusk light, watching sea birds bobbing, kids frolicking and couples strolling hand in hand along the beach. And then this big bold globe rose from the horizon right there.

A glorious moonrise surprise

In addition to its random array of shoppes, PT also had a couple of breweries, a waterfront pub with British-style beer garden, and a winery. We manned up and did the lot.

Propolis brewing specialized in seasonal, herbal, farmhouse ales. A rather odd blend of new age and olde worlde, the beer list would be more at home in an apothecary.
Beer by the sea
A decent scotch ale courtesy of PT Brewing Co. More to the point, a couple of locally renowned Tommyknockers Cornish pasties to give us a taste of home.
Soooo good 😋
Nothing like a nice glass of red to warm the cockles on a grey day

Sitting outside PT winery, I had my eyes on the fire pit all evening. Gave the evil eye and ‘move along’ vibes but nope, nothing was shifting her from the prime spot…

I consoled myself with more wine and crisps. The most expensive crisps in the world. $12 crisps. I’m now getting spammed and stalked on FaceBook by the Wine Chips brigade yet I can’t help but drool at the memory.

Walking around the residential areas in Port Townsend revealed tidy houses with grassy sidewalks resplendent with daisies. The gardens were well cared for, but I noticed an odd trend of wire fences around saplings and plants, some even had their whole yard encased. It didn’t take long to realize why.

The culprits. What happens when you don’t have a wire fence.

Historic Ford Worden State Park was our go to morning walk. Fort Worden was an army base built during the turn of the last century to protect Puget Sound from invasion by sea. There was never actually a hostile shot fired from here, most of the guns were relocated to Europe in the First World War, the remainder supplementing the artillery for World War II. Perched on the northern tip of the Olympic peninsula, it made for good walking fodder.

Teeny tiny lighthouse perched all the way down on the end

More importantly, Fort Worden featured heavily in the 1982 movie An Officer and a Gentleman, which was filmed in and around PT. A movie I don’t think I’ve watched since the 80s. Which meant we had to watch it again.

I didn’t have high expectations. I get it, iconic in the early 80’s but could it stand the test of time. Darren and I got into a bit of a Top Gun/Officer & Gentleman war. All pretty similar to me, whereas according to Darren, this was just romantic drivel compared to Top Gun which is an iconic classic. (Best not go down the route of iconic classics or we’ll be watching a re-run of The Sound of Music!)

The verdict? An Officer and a Gentleman fared better than I thought. But the real win was seeing all the local Port Townsend scenery, from the paper mill where the girls worked, to the Tides Inn used for the ‘love scene’, to Fort Worden where the eager young aviation cadets including Richard Gere were based.

Quite honestly, Port Townsend looked kind of quaint and cozy back then. And it hasn’t changed a bit. All they were missing was a supermoon and some otters.

The paper mill in Port Townsend, still going strong

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