OurGlobalAdventure

Heather and Darren's Travels

Page 2 of 21

Akaroa

After logging off from work and picking up the campervan, I had a day to kill before heading up to Mount Cook to start the Alps 2 Ocean bike ride so it was time to pop over to Akaroa. Akaroa is a small waterfront town a couple of hours from Christchurch and it was a pretty little spot to start the holiday.

It was also time to sample some of the pies that New Zealand is famous for. Veggie curry and pork belly pies were chosen to kick off the pie adventures that would fuel me for the upcoming bike ride.

New Zealand is well setup for campers and whilst the harbor car park doesn’t look that scenic, it was a perfect spot to wander into town and then stagger home.

There isn’t that much to Akaroa but it did have a waterfront gin bar and a curry house so I was pretty much sorted for the night.

The advantage of ‘camping’ at the harbor meant that in the morning there was a kayaking tour getting ready to head out so I tagged along and enjoyed a little paddle to start the day.

After a paddle and a pie (yes, another pie), it was time to head out and get myself up into the mountains ready to start the cycle adventure. It was a particularly nice evening to be camping at the lake with views up to Mount Cook where I would be riding from tomorrow.

Remote working NZ

We know that not everyone who reads the blog believes we really do work as well as travel, so here are some pics of the week that I spent in Auckland and Christchurch. The plan was to have a week working in NZ before starting my 5 week ‘recharge’ break from work.

My Auckland plans had to be reworked at the last minute as mentioned in the previous blog regarding the extended Honolulu layover. This meant my Auckland hotel wasn’t as fancy as the airbnb that Heather was due to be staying in when she came out. But I did at least get a peek-a-boo view of the Auckland waterfront, so no complaints.

Whilst Auckland is 21 hours ahead of US pacific hours, it is also -3 hours (+1 day) so it wasn’t too bad to join meetings and get the job done for the week. That said, I was pretty sure when Heather flew out in a few weeks time to do the same ‘1 week pre-holiday work week’, that she would have something to say about the time difference!

After a couple of days in Auckland, it was time to hop on down to the South Island to Christchurch. Whilst the weather hadn’t exactly been awesome in Auckland, it took a turn for the worse when I landed in Christchurch. I was starting to have second thoughts about how clever my decision was to switch a SoCal winter for a New Zealand summer!

My temporary office in Christchurch was a nice enough little airbnb and luckily the weather improved the next day and I was able to make the most of the little garden that the city center apartment had.

New cities of course mean new dining options to explore and new beers to try.

Talking of food options, Heather was a little concerned that she didn’t know what the crisps would be like in New Zealand, and if they would be an improvement on the options available in the US. I sent her some snaps from the supermarket to reassure her she would be OK during her solo week in Auckland and all she would need would be some bottles of wine and crisps, and she would be all set for dinner plans.

Finally Saturday rolled around. Finishing at lunch time Saturday (Friday 5pm US time!) meant it was time to pickup the campervan and get the recharge holiday going.

The extended Honolulu layover

The plan was LAX -> Honolulu -> Auckland with just time for a quick pint at the brewery in the airport in Honolulu before connecting with the Auckland flight. The reality was that it turned into a few days layover, but for some reason I didn’t seem to get much sympathy when I let people know I was stuck in Hawaii!

I won’t bore you with the details but suffice to say the New Zealand Electronic Travel Authority (NZeTA) is now a thing (even for Brits) and they don’t always take 24 hours to be approved and ‘system maintenance’ can cause it to take days!

The outcome was a weekend in Hawaii and then a couple of long days of travel/work combo that were brutal but given that I was going on 5 weeks of holiday I managed to muddle through my last week of work for the year!

The unexpected travel plans continued as I was in the queue at the airport for a taxi to a last minute booked hotel. Instead of a taxi, the next car in line was a limo, just for me! It was only a short hop to Waikiki and I didn’t even get a chance to open a bottle of champagne.

The first stop was lunch and the mission – to come up with a plan for the weekend!

As you can probably guess, the plan revolved around breweries and food.

I did manage to escape the mayhem of Waikiki Beach Hotels and get out on a scooter for the day. To be honest, I think I could have ridden a bike faster than the little scooter that seriously struggled to drag me up hills, but it was a fun trip along the coast.

(True story on the warnings for jelly fish!… A wave lapped in and dragged a little tentacle over my foot and it was stinging for days!)

Waikiki Beach is a bit of a Hawaii/Vegas feel with the large hotels but it does look pretty enough at sunset. Sunsets and cocktails would have been more fun with Heather tagging along 🙁

The hotel room/office space was technically an ocean view room but only if you ignore the Macy’s car park.

It wasn’t all cocktails and beaches as I did have to get up at 4am to work till lunch time, hop on a flight to Auckland, straight to bed at 1am and then back up at 5am the next day. Technically it was 5am the next, next day as I some how skipped a Tuesday.

Mellow Yellow Coloradow

We’ve been using the 1 Second Everyday app for a good few years now to string together a whole load of short videos overlaid with music, in order to provide a documentary of our travels. But I think the initial inspiration for the app when they designed it was to see how things change over time – I’ve seen 1SE compilations of a puppy growing up or a baby’s first few months. How about then, an aspen tree’s daily journey from summer bloom to fall foliage. That almost imperceptible transition from emerald green to golden yellow. All I had to do was pick a tree, any tree, and take the same one second video shot of it every day throughout our month’s stay in Keystone, Colorado. Better pick one that’s handy then, one that I’ll see every day, oh here we go, a prime specimen on our balcony.

Hmm, well that prime specimen did its damnedest to hold out on me. It soon caught on to me filming it every day, only there was some miscommunication around the purpose. There was me, patiently waiting for the tiniest signs of yellow, egging it on to change color. And there was the tree, exhibiting classic Hawthorne effect as it realized it was being watched and wanted to show off its glorious green leaves for as long as possible. While all around, the other aspens were giving in to their seasonal coming of age, my one insisted it could be the bestest greenest tree around. The whole damn month. Seriously. Of all the trees in all the world… and I had to pick this one.

I’m actually not going to subject you to the video, only for you to conclude that you wasted 30 seconds of your life. Here’s the photo version that should take a mere few seconds instead…

More an exercise of changes in sky than changes in leaf color
Ooh hang on, I spy with my little eye, a single yellow leaf!
Nope, false alarm. I resort to a few different camera angles in an effort to liven things up a bit and get some autumnal footage from the more advanced specimens in the background
Totally resorted to focusing on the background. 27th September and my tree up front is as proudly hanging out in its green summer suit as it was on 2nd September

Meanwhile, the neighbor’s trees on 15th September…

Apart from my disastrous attempt at documenting a single tree’s autumnal journey, we needn’t have worried about missing out on fall. Half way through September, that cold snap brought about the first sprinkles of icing sugar snow on the mountains, and all around the aspens took that as their cue.

Despite the chillier mornings, we continued to take it in turns to cycle round the lake into work.

One morning’s bike ride into work was particularly memorable. I leapt off my bike to snap a photo of the stunning rainbow appearing before me. Only for the elements to create a perfect storm in the mountains, the rainbow emerging like a phoenix from the flames into a fully formed end to end wonder of nature. One of life’s little special moments.

What goes up must come down and the rainbow disappeared as quickly as it came, leaving me to face the sudden deluge of rain, albeit with the biggest smile on my face. And what goes into work must come home again, so sometimes we cycled back in the evening.

The view when driving back wasn’t bad either…

And just like that, it’s back to cycling on a weekend 🙂

I think I may have mentioned the importance of hydration on a bike ride!

One particular watering hole had horse parking right outside the bar. Bikes to the left, horses to the right.

For the final Colorado weekend, we took a little road trip out to see some different fall scenery. We took the bikes of course 🙂

The ride we did to Maroon Bells, near Aspen, was fall to a tee. A perfect day for riding, with crisp clear skies and seasonal colors all around (making up for the poor showing on the balcony!)

The stunning vista of Maroon Bells. Although I have to say shortly after I saw a similar but more stunning picture on the internet from this exact spot. It still had the striking swathes of yellow aspens but the mountains were posing in winter white and instead of me in the foreground, there were a couple of moose

Over the Kebler pass was a super pretty drive, albeit still a tad early for peak colors.

We took to our feet near Crested Butte, to give our butts a rest from the saddle.

Unbeknown to us when we decided to stay the night in Crested Butte, this coincided with Vinotok, a local festival to celebrate the transition from summer to fall. (Obviously my balcony tree didn’t get an invite!) Sounds harmless enough, in fact if I was playing that game of Balderdash where you make up word definitions, I think I’d go with “a joyous pagan festival of wine drinking, merriment and celebration”.

The word Vinotok actually translates as ”all that dies shall be reborn”. Otherwise known as ”Burn the Grump”. This is but a taste of what we got…

There was certainly wine drinking and pagan celebration. A wreath of twigs and flowers was almost mandatory – as you can see, someone took pity on me and gave me their very sorry for itself wilting version. With that, we joined the throng of a thousand marauders in a massive costume party parading down the main street.

The night was dark but all around burned torches of fire, held aloft by jovial revellers. We moved ceremoniously along, shoulder to shoulder with characters wearing medieval masks, intricate face paint and decorative elk-horn headwear. All this to an increasingly riotous chant of ”Burn the Grump, Burn the Grump”. The event culminated in a massive bonfire amidst more chanting and ceremonious drum thumping.

What a bizarre night!

Our final week in Colorado gave us peak color.

We spent a fab evening with our friend from Evo, Aaron who invited us over for dinner and a sunset stroll with his dog, Wilson.

All that was left was the long road trip home…

… with a slight diversion to Mountain Tap brewery in Steamboat Springs, for this…

On our way via dinosaur country.

And a quick stop at the Bonneville salt flats before home.

The last word however, goes to my Como bike. My pride and joy. My new lease of life. At the start of this month long trip, I set a goal to ride 100 miles. That seemed a bit low for an ebike to Darren, so he upped my goal for me to 250 miles for the month. Meanwhile, rather than set his own mileage goal, Darren decided his goal would be to just beat my overall mileage for the month. OK, game on.

My total mileage for the month: 525 miles 🙂 Job done!

Countdown to Fall

We’re no strangers to Vegas. As the party city lies smack en route to Colorado, five hours in, this tends to be our go-to first night stopover. Many a time, we keep it clean and lay low in the ‘burbs. On other occasions like this one, we just can’t help ourselves. We feel the need and we feed that need to hit The Strip.

The added incentive of a brewery
The Strip view from Brewdog

Well that made for a long next day’s drive! But just like that, we found ourselves back in our second home – Summit County, Colorado.

Much as we were taken with the view from the balcony we had from our last spot in Dillon, we felt we needed something larger than hobbit-sized. So we went to the other extreme this time in Keystone, with a ridiculously large 3-bed 3-bath property to rattle around in.

Our mansion and swimming pool.
Kind of. That’s actually two houses, ours was on the right hand side. And the pool and hot tubs were for the whole residential area, not just us.
Just us in the hot tub

Ironically, the September weather on the whole was better than in July/August. Dryer anyway. We spent much of our weekends cycling the many miles of bike paths in the area.

We’re very used to seeing fields of sheep back in the UK. But over here, they’re actually pretty rare.

And it is written, any and all good bike rides deserve to be followed by beer…

And then, who’d have thought it, an Oktoberfest festival right on our doorstep in Keystone. Bring out your steins and your lederhosen. Bring out your accordion and get up, get on down to the chicken dance. Otherwise known as the birdy song. Yes really.

“With a little bit of this, and a little bit of that, and you shake your ass, clap clap clap clap”

Back to reality and the working week, which was at least broken up by the 15 mile ride in. Virtually all bike path with the odd super quiet road, I couldn’t imagine a better commute than this. We took it in turns to ride and drive.

One of my favorite little groves of aspens to ride through on the way to work. Unfortunately, I struggle to ride and hold my phone straight at the same time.
A lunchtime stroll in Frisco
The London phone booth at EVO3 is a great place to check in with mum and dad on a FaceTime call

It’s not all cycling you know. We fit a few hikes in too. Up the steep AF trail to Mount Royal, with its breathtaking views down to the town of Frisco. And up Loveland Pass to the Continental Divide.

When we fancied a change of scenery and a change of brewery, we hit up the town of Boulder, just a couple of hours drive away. We missed our Basecamp, especially for little overnight trips, but we found the next best thing.

The beer at Avery is second to none. The Maharaja Imperial IPA is truly the King of Beers. We should know – that’s a pretty extensive tap list and we virtually tried them all!

Another reason to go to Boulder is to fill your face at Voodoo Donuts. They of ”Good things come in pink boxes”. It has to be said, the Americans like their donuts. And the Americans certainly know how to do donuts. And these are no ordinary donuts.

Their signature Voodoo Doll donut is loosely figure shaped, loaded with chocolate icing and bears a scary monster face in a grimace. It has a kiss of death pretzel bludgeon thrust into its body. And the best bit – when you bite into it, blood-like raspberry jam comes oozing out. The Maple Bacon Bar donut was another hit, slathered in sticky maple syrup icing and topped with a rasher of crispy bacon. I could go on. But to be done with it, we took a baker’s dozen back to the EVO3 co-working office. As you can imagine, we were pretty popular that day!

Inevitably as we reached mid-September, the weather was starting to turn and the temperature was starting to drop. I could barely contain my excitement. Far from the ominous threat of ’winter is coming’, this was the sign I’d been waiting for – me and the trees both – that ’autumn is coming’. The emerald green mountainsides would soon be deluged in golden yellow and I was like a kid counting down to Christmas.

In the meantime, we embraced the oncoming seasonal transformation with pumpkin spiced lattes and cozy nights in, snuggled up by the fire.

Not sure it’s everyone’s American Lifestyle but I’ll take it
And maybe wine and crisps
Ready for fall, bring it on!

Colorado/Utah Summer Holiday

Three weeks down in Colorado, one to go.  Difference being the three weeks was spent mostly working, with just a little bit of playing.  Whereas the last week we get to proper go play, with a week’s holiday from work 🙂 

You could be forgiven for thinking the pictures look remarkably similar, at least they start off that way.  We spent a few more days exploring the Keystone, Frisco, Breckenridge triangle, giving me ample opportunity to play some more with my new toy, my Specialized Como e-bike.

Happy days, totally in my element

Any good bike ride leads to good food and drink, including two of our favorites, Broken Compass brewing and Breckenridge Distillery.  I can highly recommend The Godfather cocktail at the distillery.  “Revenge is a dish (or a cocktail) best served cold”.  Aged blended whiskey and amaretto, stirred and poured over ice, with personalized delivery in a wooden keg to maximize the hit of applewood smoke.  And drama.  And 1SE video opportunities.

One of the quieter cycling routes took me up to the mountain hamlet of Montezuma.  With no pub or post office, it’s pushing it to call this place a village.  Even the Americans wouldn’t have the audacity to call it a city.  Actually, I just looked it up.  According to Wikipedia it’s a ‘town’. Population: 65.  You get the picture.

Slow down, children playing. Maybe. Somewhere. I didn’t see hide nor hair.
Downtown

Lovely as it was to pay a short visit, Montezuma is probably not where it’s happening.  Given we’re looking at coming back later in the year for some autumnal leaf-peeping, we had a good scout around for other Airbnb options.  So the bike riding became a bit of a house hunting initiative, lots of fun cycling around and poking at the outside of houses.

Darren unfortunately had to spend a bit of time recuperating from a cold of man-flu proportions.  Luckily he still had the balcony to gaze out upon the lake wistfully.  While my e-bike pride and joy had pride of place in the living room for charging.

There was even chance to do some blogging before we set off home

Another Colorado fan favorite would have to be Rocky Mountain National Park.  During Covid times, they introduced timed entry into the park, whereby you have to book in advance a two hour time slot for when you want to enter the park.  And then they kept it going afterwards.  Which means you and everyone else who booked for the same two hour time slot are generally going to arrive around the same time at the beginning of the slot, resulting in a lot of waiting in line.  

Queuing is not one of my fortes at the best of times.  Luckily, there is a loophole.  Just get there before 9am and you’re good.  Simples.  Even with a two hour drive for us to get there, this was very do-able.  And the later you leave it, the busier it gets.  So if there’s one day worth setting your alarm for early, this is it.

Next up, Crested Butte.  An impossibly beautiful mountain/lake setting that is classic Colorado.  We were last here on our very first Covid road trip three years ago, and did one of my favorite hikes ever. This time around, more bike porn I’m afraid.

We did separate bike rides so whoever got back first got to choose the pub.  That would be me then.  I opted for Eldo brewery & tap room… “a sunny place for shady people”.  Complete with sunny balcony, that’ll do nicely.

Followed by pizza at Secret Stash. You can’t go too far wrong with pizza. This one was the Notorious Fig.

One of the things we miss about living in the UK, is being so close to Europe.  Yup, that ability to immerse yourself into a different culture, scenery and climate at the drop of a hat should not be underestimated.  

Some of our most memorable European holidays included hiking to mountain huts or lodges, in the Alps, the Dolomites, even the Spanish Sierra Nevada.  You could only get to these places by hiking into remote mountain locations.  And once there, you were transported to a world more basic than we’re used to.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s a definite step up from backpacking, you have your own bed, food and drink.  (And let’s face it, the older you get, the more averse to camping hardships you get; at least I do).  But in these huts, we had a sense of camaraderie with others who had also hiked in, with their own sense of adventure, their own stories to tell.  A feeling of escaping from the monotony of work to the fresh air, with nothing to worry about other than the freedom of where tomorrow’s hiking would take us.  And there was a glass of wine or two on hand to toast to that.

There is nothing equivalent in the US.  There are some basic mountain huts in Colorado but they are just an itty bitty step up from backpacking, the main difference being a roof over your head vs carrying your tent.  Nothing where you can be treated to a good meal and bed at the end of a day’s hiking in the mountains.  That is, until Hayden Mountain Backpacking Lodge came along.  It’s early days for HMBL and unfortunately no other hikers on the night we hiked in and stayed over.  But that remote sense of being far from the beaten track, having walked in on your own two feet (one of those feet being, for me – let’s face it, a little delicate to say the least), had that same element of accomplishment and remoteness without hardship.  

Our starting point of Ouray
Things got a little soggy on the way up. Foot holding up well tho.
So many awesome mountain vistas along the way
Some late summer blooms as we worked our way up
In the mountains, surrounded by the mountains
C’mon H, keep up!
While we were the only hard core hikers, the jeep trail was a popular tourist superhighway
Yay, we made it. Our home from home, MHBL for the night
Cosy inside
To top off our evening accommodation, the most adorable and welcoming gentle dog, Brie
Once up there, there were more mountain vistas to explore
And who’d have thought it this late in the season, a meadow bursting with sunny wildflowers
You’ve got to get up close and personal to get the best shots

With the benefit of time, we spent a few days roadtripping the route home, instead of the mad rush to do a thousand miles in a day and a half.  After working our way through Colorado via Crested Butte and Ouray, we hit up Moab in Utah.

After the blues and greens of Colorado lakes and mountains, Utah is very orange, red and brown.  If you’re ever doing one of those pictures where the pixels are made from individual photos, Utah could be your staple for those sandy ochre tones.  Arches National Park was first on the list but unfortunately had limited cycling options. Luckily we’ve been there before, so didn’t feel like we were missing out, and the nearby cycle paths offered ample miles of alternatives.

You may have noticed all the action shots on the bike tend to be of me. That’s because I’m too clumsy and can’t be trusted with one handed riding and multi-tasking without risking dropping the phone or crashing into something
Our cosy cabin style motel for the night
The view from our balcony

Dead Horse Point State Park was a new one on us.  And definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area.  The western rim trail offered stunning views and an awesome walk for me while Darren hit up some mountain biking trails.

Last but not least on the way home was Zion national park.  

Another great balcony view from our motel

The most fabulous aspect of Zion is that much of it is closed off to traffic, allowing only shuttle buses and bikes to use the road.  Yes, you read that right – bikes.  Genius idea. What an experience to cruise along the virtually empty roads surrounded by sheer rock walls of awesomeness.  

Again, the best advice I can give is to go early.  The US National Parks are a downfall of their own success.  As we were leaving, the park was starting to look like a zoo.  With humans as the exhibits.  

Go early… or do yourself a favor and go to a state park instead.  Go early… or go home.  Or be like us.  Go early AND go home.  Destination California.

Frisco 2023

You might wonder what on earth I can find to write about a place we’ve visited so many times before.  Frankly I’m wondering the same… it might be mostly photos!  

One of the journey for starters… an overnight in Vegas made for a nice sunrise view

As a reminder, Frisco is where it all started.  Back in the deep dark Covid days of Summer 2020 – our first experience working remotely at a co-working office together and our first three month road trip.  Fast-forward to 2023 and this will be trip #5 to Frisco!

Given we’re staying in one place for a month this time instead of traveling around, we opted for the more permanent Airbnb option, sans-BaseCamp.  (Sorry BaseCamp!). Our previous Frisco trips had us camping at Peak One & Pine Cove campgrounds, right on the reservoir peninsular – outdoor living with picture postcard views.  So we weren’t about to slum it in a back of beyond apartment – a lake/reservoir view was number one on our list of requirements.  Space, we could compromise on (and we did), but not the view.  And so it was we ended up in Dillon, the next town over to Frisco.  And this was the view from our balcony.

Happy with that!

Funnily enough, we spent a fair amount of time on our balcony.

The result… bbq salmon in a wrap with mango salsa, arugula (rocket), creme fraiche and spicy jalapenos
Chorizo watermelon salad
Mmm, my favorite, courtesy of our recent UK trip
The apartment from the outside
Mountain weather in July. Beats people watching.
Not just rain, this one was a hail storm!
Time to skip the bbq on the balcony and rustle up a steaming bowl of chilli instead

We arrived in Colorado just in time to celebrate my birthday 🙂 

As luck would have it, there happened to be a beer festival on in nearby Breckenridge.  There was me in a ‘boot’, having had my foot diagnosed with a stress fracture, and there was this great (and free!) bus triangle, which came almost but not quite close enough to our place for me to hobble there.  Turns out everyone’s having far too much fun out hiking, biking, paddle boarding and the like to think that driving for Uber is a good thing to do on a weekend.  Which made logistics a bit of a challenge.

Where there’s a will there’s a way – we made it!
Colorado beer and a pretzel necklace, happy birthday to me 🙂

Whilst Dillon was our weekend and evening base, it was back to Frisco for work.  We were welcomed back to EVO3 – the co-working office, like old friends by Aaron, the owner. Constant reminders of the outdoors and beer on tap.  What’s not to love.

Just because I had a dodgy foot, there was no reason for Darren to miss out on his morning outdoor fun and games, so he squeezed in a few cool bike rides before work.  

Me?  I enjoyed a lazy few weeks where my mornings consisted of a bit of lie in (like normal people?) before starting work at 8am.  And the odd scenic morning wander.

Sapphire Point Overlook
The name of the local sweet shoppe was quite fitting

But my invalid state didn’t stop us getting out and about for a few scenic drives… 

The imaginatively named peaks surrounding this area start at Peak 1 just behind Mount Royal and Mount Victoria in Frisco.   Up they go towards Breckenridge, Peak 2, Peak 3… etc. We did a 4X4 scenic drive in the truck up the Peak 9 road from Breckenridge up high into what is prime ski country in the winter.  

And we finished up with awesome Vietnamese pho back in Breck

There’s something quite cool about going over the Continental Divide.  And we hadn’t been able to attempt Independence Pass with the BaseCamp, no trailers allowed on windy mountain hairpin roads (and for good reason!).

At The Stew Pot in Snowmass – this home made spicy lentil & sausage soup was one of my absolute favorite meals of the trip

One thing I’m very much not impeded from doing is a boat ride.  I can sit on Aaron’s boat chilling out with a cocktail, as he obligingly tours us around Dillon reservoir, as well as I ever could.  Every time is different and it’s the weather challenges that kick the level of adventure up a notch.

Aaron at the helm
The calm before the storm, flat as a mill pond
Enjoying the ride(s)!
The one that turned into a torrential downpour

No boat ride is complete without a little trip to the Tiki Bar, a very low key container bar at Dillon marina that punches above its weight in awesome cocktails. It also happens to be our local.

And then there’s our other favorite haunt. Outer Reach Brewery in Frisco has a mountain view that you never tire of, a wide range of IPAs to choose from, and a thai franchise that specializes in the most delicious fried chicken. Just go easy on ’the bird’ sauce or it will blow your head off.

Not forgetting Prosit, if you’re a fan of German beer and sausages. Which we are!

Sausage sampler
Prost! Celebrating with some of my Colorado-based teammates from work, what a great opportunity to get together
Oh and there we are back on the boat again

We were surrounded by the outdoors – bombarded with stunning lakeside views and breathing the fresh clear mountain air. And so I have to admit to being a tad frustrated at the no hiking/ no running rule. Bring on my savior – the electric bike!

You could say things escalated pretty quickly. I believe it was Darren’s suggestion initially for me to rent an electric bike one afternoon. With no intention or expectation that this would lead to me buying one. But I was sold that quickly. As I felt the wind rush past me, the speed gave me a sense of freedom that had been somewhat lacking the last few weeks. I was finally able to appreciate the Colorado I know and love.

And so by the following weekend I had my very own Specialized Como Class 1 e-bike, complete with Integrated Gear Hub. Without getting too technical, this means the gears feel like they’re on a smooth sliding scale, no annoying clicking or clunking or dropping of the chain.

Como, my Como, you have given me a new lease of life. I didn’t think I could love a bike more than my California beach cruiser, but I was wrong. I guess there’s a time and a place.

So come on then Colorado – let’s be having ya!

My new prized possession
My morning commute to work across the Dillon Dam…
… and over the boardwalk skirting the marina. 6 or 7 miles each way, with bike path the entire way
A longer weekend adventure on the Rio Grande trail
Up to the very scenic Maroon Bells
Told you, very scenic. Nice rainbow thing going on too.
Officially in moose country

Bend 2023

The lengthy roadtrips we’ve done in the Basecamp over the last few years have been a great ‘introduction’ to the US. As in, they’ve allowed us to appreciate many different places, albeit fleetingly. A week here, a few days there, all while working full time. An awesome and enriching period in our lives – however the urge to see so much and experience different places has limited our in-depth intimacy with the towns and cities along the way.

One thing our road trips have given us (over and above a much improved knowledge of American geography) is insight into where to go back to. It’s a bit like a cruise that way… you get to visit lots of different ports and/or countries and can decide where you’d like to go back to for a longer vacation.

All this by way of background as to why we decided to leave the Basecamp behind for a change and spend three full weeks grounded in one spot. That spot being Bend in central Oregon. Go back to any of the Bend blogs from our previous road trips and you’ll find that “we love, love, LOVE Bend”.

The 800 mile road trip from Santa Clarita to Bend included a pit-stop in Chico, California for an all-important almond croissant or two from Stobl coffee shop, and an opportunity to stretch our legs in Sisson Meadows in Mount Shasta. Both familiar to us from our road trips and conveniently located along the way.

Taking a welcome break from sitting in the truck to sit on a bench

The method in our madness of driving up over Memorial Day weekend meant that we still had some weekend left to do stuff by the time we arrived. Top of our list was nearby Smith Rock State Park. A friend had described it as ”insanely cool rock formations” and he was not wrong. The jagged basalt Smith Rock rose 600 feet over the Crooked River in a sheer cliff-face, with other impressive rock formations beset by the eager climbing community.

We chose to hike Misery Ridge (that of steep wooden steps clinging to a rough, crumbling trail with crazy hairpins), definitely worth it for the rewarding views. Sheer ’tuff’ pinnacles in the foreground, the wide meandering Crooked River in the valley far below, ‘tiny’ mansions and homesteads dotted among vibrant green fields and farmland, and on the distant horizon – the immaculate snow-cloaked peaks of Mount Bachelor and the three Sisters (plus a couple of other mountains I don’t know the names of).

What a place! Misery Ridge took us up and over that rock behind to my left

And then you have Monkey Face rock. Which kind of looked a bit like a monkey face if you squinted at it the right way. More impressive were the insane climbers about to attempt the sheer walls of its non-monkey body.

Our home for the next three weeks was an Airbnb nestled among the pine trees of the Mount Bachelor Village Resort. It provided an alternative workspace when we fancied a change from the co-working office, it had a cozy fire for the few evenings that turned chilly, and there was a spacious balcony large enough for not only the grill/BBQ but also the three bikes we’d brought with us.

Two of the three bikes. And the grill in full swing.
The result! With mint sauce of course

Before and after work, recreation was heavily centered around the Deschutes river, which ran past our apartment complex and all through town. A trail ran alongside, the perfect setting for many a training run, a commute to/from work or a stroll to check out the wildlife.

Darren even managed to get a bit of Stand Up Paddle-boarding in.

All of this bookended the working day but let’s face it, there’s worse environments to be working in. Even the Haven co-working space had a view of the river. Not to mention an open deck and beer on tap, perfect for a happy hour drink after work.

And when we were not recreating or working, there’s always eating and drinking to be done, including a couple of upscale experiences. My favorite was probably the steakhouse Rancher Butcher Chef or RBC. The steak tartare was sublime and the hangar steak delicious but that’s not why it was my favorite. That space in my heart was reserved for the piece de resistance, the sherry flight. I don’t know who was more excited about this, me or the lady serving me who had spent a couple of years in Jerez and was passionate about her sherry choices. And let’s face it, I don’t think she sells many.

His n hers version of a bacon-wrapped date to go with the sherry

We were also very fortunate to bag a table at Ariana for their six course tasting menu and wine pairing.

In case you’re concerned, the half a radish and focaccia bread was an amuse bouche and not one of the official six courses
Just the one scallop but the aromatic carrot curry bisque poured on tableside completed the dish perfectly
Amazing pasta at Bosa

The extra time we had from being centered in one destination for three weeks allowed us to really embrace the experience of living in Bend. And yet we still got to explore a little further afield. Including Palisades Cove State Park, Tumalo Falls, the Cascade Lakes scenic byway and for old times sake, a walk up Pilot Butte.

Palisades Cove
The view from Pilot Butte over Bend on a stormy day
The rather splendid Tumalo Falls
Mount Bachelor displaying his best side in Elk Lake
The ‘highly recommended’ walk to Blue Lagoon. Personally, I’d highly recommend you stay away on account of the mozzies.

It was a good job we brought our bikes with us, because there was no shortage of mountain biking, road biking and pootling along bike paths to be done. And then there’s the McKenzie Pass. At an elevation of over 5,000 ft, this road is snowbound and closed in winter. Come the spring and there’s a magical window after which it’s been ploughed and before it’s open to cars. Bingo.

It’s a most spectacular ride, starting with a lung-piercing incline and the lowest of the low gears. There’s thick forest on both sides, eventually emerging at Windy Point to a stark, barren moonscape. The rocky ex-lava flow extends as far as you can see. The view is awe-inspiring – once you catch your breath.

Given the ride was all along the road, it was fair to say it was somewhat dominated by road bikes. And more than the odd electric bike thrown in. Needless to say I was on the only mountain bike I saw all day. It’s a good job I have no ego as cyclist after cyclist overtook me. I just trundled on at my own pace, loving the fresh air and the sense of achievement.

Windy Point. Luckily Darren had his road bike with him.

And then there’s this little spot, less than a mile from our place but sometimes it’s just easier to bike. A secluded hideout on the rocks, with an awesome view of the river and just perfect for chilling out with a beer and people watching. Aka watching the crazy people jump into the river.

On the more casual side of eating and drinking, Bend outdoes itself with food truck hubs and breweries. It’s a bit like chilling out in a beer garden of an English pub, with picnic tables scattered on a lawn… sitting in the afternoon sun sipping a cold beer and trying to decide between wood fired pizza or spicy Mexican tacos.

Beer garden at Deschutes brewery
Cool bar made from a barrel
Delicious Boone Dog Pizza at The Barn hub in Sisters
Huddled around the fire pit at Good Life Brewing
Keeping it healthy at Active Culture
Even Darren’s going to struggle to drink all that

And when the weather’s not all that, there are perfectly acceptable inside options too…

Worthy Brewing
Cascade Lakes brewery. Not the best beer truth be told
One of my favorites: Monkless

Good job we like to balance all that eating and drinking with something a bit more energetic. Our last weekend entailed the finale of what we’d been working up to with our training – a one mile ’run’ up Pilot Butte hill, a half marathon for me and a sprint triathlon for Darren, courtesy of Pacific Crest Endurance Events. Well organized, perfect weather and a lot of fun.

Slogging up Pilot Butte
The half marathon, featuring the ever-present Deschutes River
Triathlon day… starting with the river swim…
Such a beautiful setting
… bike…
… run
… and the fourth element of any good triathlon – beer!

All that was left was to celebrate our event successes and close out a fabulous three weeks at Bangers & Brews. And yes, I can confirm that we still do love, love, LOVE Bend!

Christmas in Columbia

After three hectic weeks living the Selina digital nomad life in Bogota, Medellin and Cartegena, it was time to pause the bean counting, down tools, and power off the laptops.  It’s like that Friday feeling, only better – because we knew when Monday came around, we’d still have a week’s holiday left.  Big smiles all around.

First up was Tayrona National Park, a tropical paradise with Caribbean beaches and lush rainforest.  We were staying at Finca Barlovento, an upscale lodge style retreat where the River Pledras meets the sea.  A perfect oasis to spend Christmas.  

We embraced Christmas Day sunrise with an early romantic stroll on the beach.  We chilled out in the afternoon with cocktails by the pool.  And my Christmas treat was the most awesome full body massage in an open cabana, surrounded by nature.  The squawking and screeching of the resident parrots only added to the ambience.  In fact it reminded me of the time in Zimbabwe when I had a massage in similar circumstances, a rare pampering treat while traveling.  Half naked and half asleep at the end of the massage, that time I was rudely awakened by a mischievous playful lion cub wanting in on the action.

Back in the day
Back in the present – sunrise on Christmas Day
Guess we’ll save the swimming for another day
Breakfast with a view
It’s easy to miss the parrot for the hummingbird
The great-tailed Grackles that hung out around the restaurant were even more vocal than the parrots
Sundowners on the balcony
As dusk turned to evening, the swimming pool and surrounding rainforest were illuminated. (The all-essential bug spray to hand on the table).

It was so relaxing to wind down and escape completely, feeling a long long way from the hectic hurried normality of the day to day.  Despite the remote isolation of the place, I was very pleased to find they had wifi.  We got to speak to most of the rellies to say hi and Merry Christmas.  And of course, no Christmas is complete without Love Actually, downloaded to the iPad and watched in bed with a baileys.

But not until we’d checked out the tiki bar
Don’t mind if I Mai Tai

Next up was Minca, a tiny off-the-beaten-path mountain village.  

Minca is gradually becoming more on-the-beaten-path for hip backpackers and those in the know, which I guess includes us.  Darren had booked us into a rather unusual Airbnb – a tree house.  Or more accurately, a tree tower.  And I have to say he rather excelled himself.  It was quite the structure – crafted from bamboo, it resembled a tall mushroom (think very large very tall mushroom) with a flamboyant leaf-shaped roof.

Selva Minca, our home for two nights

From the ground-level open bathroom (with running hot water), a narrow winding staircase took us up to the next level, minimally yet tastefully decked out.  Above that, the king sized bed was draped with a mossie net like a grand four-poster, and a French press was on standby for morning coffee. The jungle views were expansive and impressive, whether we enjoyed them seated on the high top bar stools, relaxing horizontally in the hammock, or splashing around in the open shower.

There was a river nearby for soaking in.  While Darren immersed himself in the experience and the water, I enjoyed a little paddle, for the cool relief it gave to my swollen bite-infested ankles. We also used a local guide to accompany us on a hike to some of Minca’s hidden waterfalls.

Insta vs Reality lol

Leaving Minca behind, we had a l-o-n-g journey ahead of us to get to Bucaramanga.  Three reasons to go to Bucaramanga – one, because Diego, Darren’s Columbian colleague lived there; two – there’s not really anywhere else remotely suitable for tourists to stay overnight between Minca and Bogota; and three – because it’s just such a cool name!

The hire car we picked up in Cartagena hadn’t been put to the test much as yet.  Not by us anyway – I have to say it’s the most beat up, dented, dinted, scraped, scratched and bashed up excuse for a hire car I’ve ever seen.  I guess they didn’t bother fixing anything ‘cosmetic’.

We were reliably informed by Waze that our 330 mile journey would take us at least 11 hours.  True story.  Think narrow busy roads where you take your life in your hands every step of the way.  There is no concept of a bypass so every town and every village involved endless speed bumps, hawkers stepping into the road selling all sorts of random stuff, and mopeds whizzing by any which way.  Then came the mountain roads – very scenic but steep and windy with trucks crawling at snail’s pace, cars overtaking on blind corners, and cruel potholes poised to take you out ninja-style.

Somehow, 12 hours later, we made it in one piece (well, we were both in one piece – the car was almost in one piece, something did fall off after one of those pothole assassinations).  A few deep breaths and beers with Diego were needed for normality to be restored.  

Also in Bucaramanga, a tamarind margarita at a Mexican bar, El Patron
Darren feeling unusually adventurous tried a ‘Gomichela’. This turned out to be a michelada with Corona, tangy Chamoy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, a tamarind chilli rim, and gummies (or ’gomitas’). He has forever regretted this drink choice.
Looking at this picture even now turns my stomach. The rainbow gummies (sour fizzy sweets) fizzed and bubbled in the drink like a witch’s brew, turning slimy and sticky in the already sour liquid that resembled anything but beer. No thanks.

The last stop on our Columbia holiday was Barichara, one of the prettiest villages in the country.  Think colonial architecture with sandstone churches, whitewashed houses with red tile roofs and brightly painted doors, and narrow cobbled streets.  It reminded me very much of a Spanish village.

Those narrow cobbled streets posed their own particular challenge as we tried to navigate to the Trip Monkey hostel we were staying at.  Google Maps was no use, it just wasn’t working.  Waze was missing at least half the streets.  And Apple Maps made up its own imaginary streets.  Between them all, we ended up at a dead end along what we’d thought was a one way street.  A brief yelling match and a 7 point turn was all it took to resolve 🙂 

Pizza and pasta with a view into the drying room where the home made pasta lay in wait to be plunged in hot water for the next lucky diners
A handy way to get around
This tiny patio was all but deserted just 5 minutes prior.  We’d ensconced ourselves there for a quiet drink away from the busy bar, only to be inundated with a dozen others with the same idea.
Feeling Christmassy in the evening
A lovely meal at La Puerta Secret Kitchen. An enchanted garden setting and such a well kept secret, we were the only ones there.

The initial intention was for Darren to do some mountain biking but the worlds didn’t align and he was stuck with me and a hike through the beautiful surrounding countryside.  We had stunning mountain views the whole way, interrupted only by the local ‘wildlife’ – a herd of cows, excited to be getting their lunch (those funny cows with humps on their backs), and some goats on leashes, out and about for their daily walk.

We arrived into the neighboring village of Guane with low expectations, which it massively exceeded.  It was another delightfully pretty whitewashed village, with the most laid back understated mirador bar. Give me a beer with a view and some sun and you have one very happy chick.

And there you have it… our Christmas in Columbia was brought to a close in the paradise of Guane. All that was left was a New Years Eve meal (and an early night) at the Marriott in Bogota before our early morning flight home. As we presented our American passports (for the first time flying into the US as American citizens), we were greeted with a smile and a ”Welcome Home!” 🙂

Columbia Week 3: Cartagena

Another flight, another Columbian city and another heat upgrade.  Our final week in the run up to Christmas was in Cartagena and we felt the tropical Caribbean heat as soon as we stepped off the plane.  The most touristy destination so far, Cartagena really had a relaxed holiday vibe.

We were staying at, yes you guessed it, another Selina.  In addition to the standard co-working area, this one boasted a rooftop terrace with a classic sea view, a taco bar (and beverage bar) and a pool.  The perfect place for a leisurely breakfast, a sundowner cocktail, or a video call for the work Christmas party.

The inspired, understated yet romantically beautiful Christmas ’book’ tree in a Selina corridor
The comfiest bed since we left the Seabourn ship

Selina was situated in the Getsemani neighborhood, which boasted a lively street art scene.  

Just one of many squares buzzing with nightlife and street entertainment

We were but a stone’s throw from the walled Old Town, we just had to negotiate the Christmas decorations along the way – all quiet in the heat and humidity of the midday sun but oh so mobbed at night.  

The Old Town, founded in the sixteenth century, was a maze of cobbled alleyways amongst colorful colonial buildings.  Walking the historic city walls, both here and around the San Felipe de Barajas fort, gave us an opportunity to immerse ourselves in the history and culture of the place, while taking in the impressive architecture.

Not the most amazing pic to showcase what was actually some amazing birdlife. Colorful parrots and parakeets fresh from the paintshop, and beady-eyed hawks. And pigeons. There’s always pigeons.

With both the Old Town and Getsemani on our doorstep, there was no shortage of bars and restaurants to check out.

I’ll have a ’coffee ritual’ please
No surprise that Darren found a beer bar
Just a small platter for two (going on six)
Delicious garlic prawns at a tiny side street restaurant – two tables this side of the street and two on the other side…
…under the watchful eye of the rather regal looking local cat
The way too cool for school trendy bar Alquimico

And just like that, it was Friday 23rd December and our last night in Cartagena. We had that fabulous ‘Happy Friday, Happy Christmas, no more work til next year’ wind-down feeling. What better way to indulge that feeling than by watching the sun go down over a margarita.

Or a beer

To mix things up a bit, I ordered a grand sounding cocktail with mezcal, ginger, gin and tonic. It was served in a golden goblet nearly as big as my head.

Darren modeling said goblet for scale

After that, it was pretty much game over. We politely thanked the locals on the way out. Who quite frankly looked like they’d seen better days, a little on the pale and skinny side.

Christmas in Columbia…? Bring it on!

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