After years of threatening to do Napa ‘properly’, we finally went for it: four days, two bikes (e-bike for me, thank you very much), and what would otherwise be a frankly ambitious route through the valleys and over the hills of Northern California wine country. Starting and finishing in Geyserville, we set off to see if it’s possible to combine exercise, sightseeing, and moderate wine tasting without falling off. (It wouldn’t be the first time – but that’s a story for another day).
Day 1
There’s nothing quite like realizing you’ll be living in the same bike shorts for the next four days to focus the mind. Chamois Butt’r is our new best friend, and we made sure to pack plenty of it into my panniers. A few too many beers on our impromptu San Fran Waymo brewery tour the day before contributed to a later start than planned. But what a day for it: blue skies, row upon row of emerald green vines stretching forever, and that unmistakable sense of freedom and anticipation that you get at the start of a trip.
Things got interesting outside Guerneville, when we started to encounter some ominous “Road Closed Ahead” signs. Cue much muttering about battery range and what would happen if we had to backtrack twenty miles. Turns out a major landslide had carved away half the road. Cars: no chance. Bikes: well luckily, with a bit of sidestepping, we were able to squeak through. Crisis averted.
Clearly the cycling gods were in our favor, because next up was a stop at Korbel – only the biggest, most famous sparkling wine venue in the region – where rather than the expected wallet-busting tasting fee, we were offered a complimentary glass of their Blanc de Noirs. Result!
As we neared the coast, the wind had other plans for us. Battling into a 25mph headwind with unpredictable sideways gusts, I’m amazed we made it in one piece. When we finally rolled into the hotel, we were rewarded with a free bottle of Chardonnay waiting in the fridge. I’ve never been so happy to see mediocre white wine in my life.
Day 2:
Heading back inland, the road up Middle Lane was pure nostalgia — classic British hedgerows bursting with dandelions, elderflower, and brambles, with wood pigeons cooing away from above. If it hadn’t been for the California poppies and the sheep looking slightly smug, we could’ve been pedaling down a country lane in Devon or Hampshire. All that was missing was the drizzle.
Stopped for a civilized glass at Roche Winery (lovely friendly barman, excellent picnic tables). Darren had an IPA, obviously.
Last stop: Three Fat Guys Winery, where we were served ironically by not a fat guy but a very skinny lady.
The day finished in Sonoma with a plunge in the world’s most enthusiastic hot tub. If you ever need your bike-weary muscles pummeled to oblivion, I know just the spot.
Day 3:
Today’s route served up some beautiful country roads along with some truly horrific tarmac in need of TLC. Denmark Street, I’m looking at you. You could lose a small child in those potholes. We spent a fair bit of time retracing our steps thanks to some classic navigational mishaps. Darren, I’m looking at you!
Eventually, we found our way to Oxbow Public Market in Napa, where I packed my panniers full to bursting with picnic supplies: a crusty French baguette, some gooey cheese, Castelvetrano olives, melt-in-the-mouth tuna belly, and naturally, a bottle of Napa Valley Pinot Noir. Striving for the classy picnic in the park look over the homeless wino look. Surely it can’t be considered drinking in public if you’ve got cheese?
By mid-afternoon the heat was properly up, and for some reason the final stretch from Yountville to St Helena turned into Darren’s personal Tour de France time trial. Out of nowhere, he kicked it up a gear—serious hammer time. I did my best to keep up, failing miserably even with my bike dialed up to turbo mode. I rolled in to Clif Family Wines in a puddle. I had to down oodles of water before I was sufficiently revived for a glass of the good stuff.
Day 3, in the bag.
Day 4
Final day, and breakfast included! The real mark of a quality breakfast? A hard-boiled egg. You know you’ve made it when there’s an egg – a true sign of civilization. Spirits (and caffeine) high, we set off on the Silverado Trail, retracing the exact route we once did on a tandem beach cruiser ten years ago. (For the record: if you ever want to test a relationship, try a tandem.)
Wildlife highlights today were less David Attenborough, more local color: a spectacular California King snake smack in the middle of the bike path (but sadly, he had met a premature demise). Plus a bonus sighting of a proud peacock strutting his stuff and a very alive and lively baby deer pronking across the road.
We breezed through Calistoga, then found salvation at the Dry Creek Store. They’ve got a bar! And an awesome one at that. We took refuge there to cool off with a cold Pliny – possibly the best beer in the world, especially when you’ve cycled nearly 50 miles and the temp is high 80s.
Last stop: Pedroncelli winery, where we were treated to a proper wine tasting, and topped up the panniers ‘to go’.
And just like that, we were back in Geyserville — full circle, four days and 189 miles later, with two-tone sunburned legs.
Napa by bike: Worth every pedal stroke (and every glass).
Number of bottles acquired: Classified.
Days in Lycra: Four too many.
Would we do it again? Absolutely. In fact, the four days was just the point to point cycling, with the rest of the week and more biking still to come 🙂
