We’ve had some good bear sightings over the years. One in particular that stands out (maybe just a little too close for comfort!) was in the Grand Tetons just last year Grand Tetons: In Search of Bears. But for me, wildlife watching is a passion, and you can’t get too much of a good thing.
We’d pre-booked a bear viewing trip from the ship which specifically mentioned the salmon run. I was starting to get worried this would be a huge let down as the salmon run notoriously doesn’t start until August. And our trip was early July. So when I got the opportunity for an extra bear trip to the Olympic Park in Whistler, I jumped at the chance.
In an off-road Jeep, we toured the back roads through the park and after sufficient time of not seeing any signs of wildlife to build up the anticipation, we were rewarded with a bear. Not that I’m being fussy but this bear was not in a picturesque spot. We were in a huge parkland area with gorgeous scenery, interspersed with Olympic memorabilia. And this bear hung out by some very unattractive buildings, sooo intent on eating it would barely lift its head for a photo. Cue some challenging photo attempts.
A few other sightings followed but the photos didn’t get much better.
Almost a Heather and the bear selfie
Why did the bear cross the road…? I think to hide from us!
OK now, time to go home!
Kind of ironic that Darren had some better sightings (maybe even photos!) while he was mountain biking.
Our bear trip from the ship was something else however. Like an episode of Planet Earth. In fact, I think the BBC may have filmed the salmon run here (and if they didn’t, they missed a trick). Anyway, I’m getting ahead of myself.
Our trip started with a jet boat ride from Wrangell, Alaska (kind of in the middle of nowhere) to Anan Lagoon in the heart of the Tongass National forest (even more in the middle of nowhere). Far from being just a means to an end, the jet boat ride was an experience in itself. In between bouts of bouncing, jolting and jerking across the water, we stopped to take in some interesting sights along the way. An eagle’s nest high up in a Sitka Spruce tree, harbour seals gracefully swimming and diving yet reluctant to haul themselves out onto the rocks (too hot, methinks – yes, yet another unseasonably hot day in Alaska).
And then there was the dead whale. A grey whale washed up on a beach, about 3 weeks into its decay cycle, a very proud and protective bald eagle perched atop what used to be the whale’s head, looking like he didn’t want to share.
Mine all mine
As we continued our bumpy jaunt in the jet boat, our driver saw some tell-tale porpoise splashes in the distance, and with lightning reaction – like a dog that’s seen a squirrel, she veered hard left and floored it towards them. Turns out Dall’s porpoise are attracted to fast moving boats, and between them and us, we maneuvered into position. With a “woohoo, I love me some Dall bow-riding” from our driver, we were soon enjoying an acrobatic display from a dozen or so porpoise flanking the boat, as they danced and leapt out of the water alongside us.
After all that excitement, it seemed very peaceful as we arrived at Anan Lagoon. We were escorted by a guide with a big bad ass gun. He advised us sagely “it shouldn’t come to that”. (In other words, pay attention, listen to my instructions and don’t wander off.) And so we stayed in a close group, talking loudly as we tramped over the half mile boardwalk through the dense forest of cedar, spruce and hemlock.
As we arrived at the observation area, built by the US Forest Service to allow bear viewing in relative safety, we realized the fenced area was but a symbol to the bears. A token gesture to indicate a barrier over which the bears should not cross (and vice versa).
In addition to the observation platform, there was a photo blind – a camouflaged covered area right by the creek where you could practically come face to snout with a bear. This was where we spotted our first black bear.
He appeared from nowhere out of thick brush on the steep riverbank, eyes only for the river. A juvenile male with quite honestly not too much of a clue about fishing. He waded into the creek with a swagger, surveying the bounty of salmon before him. “Look at me!” And then he splashed around ineffectually. He leapt and he pounced – persistent yet futile. While there was no eye contact with the bear, I’ve gotta think he knew he was being watched. “Aw man, need to step up my game, this is getting kinda embarrassing”. And with a last forlorn glance in our direction, he pounced again – only this time he struck gold. Or technically pink. Salmon anyway. The fish was doing a bit of wriggling but the bear held fast, his sharp teeth clamped (“Don’t mess it up now!”). And with that, off he scampered to a nearby cave at the side of the waterfall.
No shortage of salmon
Check me out, I’m gonna catch me some fish
Give me a minute, it’s not as easy as it looks
Gotcha!
Easy does it
Show’s over, move along
He was just the first of many black bears we saw that day. We spent the best part of three hours at the creek and the time just flew by. Another highlight was a mother trying to show her cub how to catch salmon. He was paying about as much attention as that other guy probably did when he was younger.
And there were times we didn’t know which way to look – bear exits stage left, eagle swoops in low, bear appears stage right. Repeat.
Bear being photobombed by an eagle
Eagles rule
And remember that tiny wooden fence between us and the bears that wouldn’t even stop a teddy bear, never mind a real live bear. Well we kept our end of the bargain, and luckily the bears kept theirs. Just.
I’d like to say this is how Seabourn Does Bears. But let’s face it, the bears do their own thing. You pay your money and you take your chance. But when the salmon are there for the taking, seems like every day is the Teddy Bear’s picnic day. If you go down to the woods today…