So say Guinness. Apparently it takes 119 seconds to pour the perfect pint. So do yourself a favor and pour yourself a drink. In the mean time…
I am mesmerized by the ocean. I could sit and watch waves for hours. For these are not the gentle lapping waves that inch their way gently along a shoreline, ever so gradually cloaking the sand in a fine sliver of briny water only to retreat like a fading whisper. Oh no. These are Hawaii North Shore waves. Surfer waves.
To be fair, I don’t even need surfers. The ocean, whatever its state, is always an enchanting distraction, why else do people yearn for sea views. But these waves – in winter, in Hawaii – are like nothing I’ve ever experienced. Yes, including in Scarborough. And California for that matter.
Way out to sea, from a mere ripple builds an unstoppable force, rising up into a sheer wall of water, more impressive than anything Trump could ever dream up. For a tiny moment, it peaks to a knife-edge crest before the white horses come galloping over the top, turning the wall into a rolling barrel, a beast of a wave.
Fearsome giants, the white horses fly with their wild manes streaming and nostrils flaring. Their galloping hooves churn the sea below them to a swirling white froth as they charge relentlessly to shore.
And just when you’re over-awed by the beauty and grandeur of the natural world, along comes the next wave, and then the next one. An unstoppable eternity, yet each one unique and enthralling.
Throw in a high surf advisory and the excitement and anticipation go up a notch. Time to bring on the surfers!
When we watch surfers back in SoCal, it seems there’s an awful lot of bobbing around going on, waiting for waves. Even when the waves come, a few spirited individuals will have a go while the majority continue to bob around. If I had to guess, I’d say it’s as much about embracing the surfer dude lifestyle and living the California dream as it is about riding the waves.
Here on the North Shore, it’s all about the waves. Not so much bobbing around going on – the surfers are out there for a reason, and barely a wave goes past without some gutsy guy or gal taking the bait. And so the dial on the wave watchfest goes up to the next level.
These surfers are there for the ride. No beginners can take on The Big Ones; these are the dedicated pros who’ve put in the hours, days and years of work to get to this level. Their work pays off as they embrace the massive waves, gliding effortlessly up to the crest, flying gracefully down the wall and staring into the eye of the barrel.
The level of skill, stamina and bravery of these surfers is without question. I am in awe. And them just being there adds another dimension that goes beyond their talents – it provides scale and context to the power of the sea. The surfers look so tiny and vulnerable against the enormity of the waves, and yet they prevail.
But it’s not just that. The reason this is special is because it’s quintessential Hawaii. You can keep your palm trees and beaches and volcanoes. This is where it’s at, this is what it’s about. This is the Guinness advert that captured imaginations 23 years ago by bringing to life the combination of surfing, white horses, and patience. This is what I’ll remember about Oahu. To me, this IS Hawaii. And that, my friend is worth waiting for.
Iconic. And filmed right here on the North Shore. The surfing bit anyway, they added the horses in after.
Lots of tiny black specks in the distance, waiting for The Big One
Speaking of waiting for good things… that elusive Mai Tai cocktail eventually materialized, back on the balcony.
And with that, it’s time to go home.
