The absolute most awesome thing about our second Airbnb was the balcony, complete with ocean views. (The least awesome thing was that it didn’t have a dishwasher – I searched high and low, opening the fridge and oven doors repeatedly thinking it must be hidden somewhere. Nope. Inevitably, we coped.)

As you can imagine, we spent some considerable time on the balcony.

For a start, Darren claimed it as his workspace, come rain or shine, from early morning when it was still pitch black throughout the rest of the working day. Any early morning zoom calls had to first contend with the cocks crowing, boldly announcing the new day followed by a cacophony of other tropical birds enthusiastically trying to outdo each other.

Some of the not so quiet locals

The balcony was mostly our after work hangout too, perfect for BBQing and playing word games. Or for just chilling out with a beer, watching the sun set over the ocean.

Spam sushi on the balcony. Only in Hawaii.

We fit in a fair few walks on Oahu, the favorite of which had to be the headland trail out to Ka’ena point (so good we did it twice). It was a rugged path that hugged the coastline, traversing rocks, sand and puddles, all the time in the company of humpback whales, their tell-tale blows and tail splashes far out to sea.

You don’t get too far on any coastal walk without running into a graffitied pillbox. I spy a spam sushi.

Ka’ena state preserve is also a protected nesting area for albatrosses. They normally spend most of their time out at sea, but lucky for us, it was prime nesting season. Bigger than the average gull (although not quite as enormous as I remember from the Disney film The Rescuers), they seem quite majestic as they soar on the thermals overhead. On the ground, not so much. Their comical waddle is more reminiscent of a drunk duck.

But they come into their own with their elaborate courting rituals. Albatrosses pair for life, so much effort goes in to finding the right partner and strengthening their bonds. They crooned and they danced, bobbing up and down and swaying from side to side. They stretched their necks to raise a squawk to the sky gods and stared lovingly into each other’s eyes before tapping their beaks together in a loving albatross kiss. It was like watching a David Attenborough wildlife extravaganza.

Various other Oahu hikes involved road tripping along the Kamehameha highway to Koko, Kuaokala, Kahuku, Kailua and Kahualoa. One of these even involved an armed forces escort, as we had to get through an air force satellite tracking station, one of those with the giant golf balls.

Not allowed to take pics of the giant golf balls. You’ve got views instead – Kuaokala forest trail. Spot the couple hiking along the ridge.

Being that we were on an island, there was no shortage of ocean views.

Kahuku Point
Koko Head
Kahualoa Cove – looks like a nice place to pop down for a swim
Even if it means going past here
Made it!
Pupukea
If only to prove that not every single place we went to started with a K
Atop of Pupukea pillbox

After all that walking, it’s time to partake into some of the non-spam related Hawaiian delicacies, courtesy of the many food trucks and their al fresco dining. And with the end of our month in Oahu drawing near, I can already feel a diet coming on. Just not quite yet.