OurGlobalAdventure

Heather and Darren's Travels

Author: Heather Hamilton (Page 3 of 21)

Looking forward to… Cruising NZ

It may not seem like much but boy, was I glad to see the inside of Tom Bradley terminal at LAX.  It was a week before Christmas and I was finally about to follow in Darren’s tracks, destination New Zealand.  Note to self… in the run up to Christmas, chances are that the merry hell of standard Friday evening LA traffic will be even worse than normal.  LAX lies exactly 35 miles from our house.  On a good day, door to door is 45 minutes.  But you always allow two hours, just in cases.  

Three and a half hours it took me!  Three and a half hours to go 35 miles to LAX!  With two miles to go and traffic at a standstill, panicked passengers were emerging from their Ubers and running towards the airport with their luggage.  Adding to the mayhem, given there’s no actual path.  They were the lucky ones with just their carry-on luggage – I didn’t fancy my chances much with my super sized cruise suitcases and laptop.

Having survived the very real risk of not making it to the airport, I luckily breezed through check in (everyone else was long gone).  I breathed a sigh of relief as I realized I’d make it to the gate for boarding time.  And then came to my senses… with a ‘cheap seats’ ticket, there’s no way I’d be near the front of the queue for boarding.  Which would give me ooh, a good ten minutes to grab a glass of red in the terminal.  

And…. relax!

With a midnight departure, I totally lucked out on the overnight portion of the flight with a three seater row to myself.  The layover was in Papeete, on the island of Tahiti.  I’m sure it’s a tropical paradise although I wouldn’t really know.  You don’t get to see too much from the inside of an airport, other than the flying in and out bit.

The first thing that hit me after arriving in Auckland a day and a half after leaving LA (that whole date line thing messes with my mind), was the somewhat Britishness of New Zealand.  There were signs for lifts and toilets, and I was quite tickled to hear the satnav in the Uber speaking in a posh English accent.

Given Darren was still off galavanting on his South Island adventure, I’d asked him to book me a nice place, well located.  He rather excelled himself actually.

A perfect little waterfront pad, right in downtown Auckland
Sea views wherever you look
I didn’t waste any time in settling myself in on the swanky balcony. Of course, I was in my element to find British-style crisps!

I still had Monday to enjoy New Zealand’s capital city before starting work (the extra day thing again, it was still Sunday in California).  I heard exercise is good for jet lag.  And what a lovely day I had walking 12 miles across Auckland, technically kind of from one side of New Zealand to the other.

Treated myself to crispy duck, nom nom

The rest of the week was quite honestly a blur of 4:30am alarm calls and long working days.

The awesome thing about those early starts tho… I was blown away by the sunrises
I also couldn’t quite believe how close the Airbnb apartment was to where the cruise ships docked at Princes Wharf
Had to go on wide angle from the balcony, and still couldn’t fit the whole ship in the pic

And then in flew Darren, as if to remind me that we had a vacation to go on.

Reunited after nearly a month!

Darren had booked us a sunset kayak trip on Friday evening.  Should be a nice start to the holiday!  Turns out this involved a 3+ mile kayak across open water to Rangitoto island; a picnic; a 2 hour hike up Rangitoto peak, descending at dusk; and a night paddle back in the dark, getting back around midnight.  Not quite sure where the sunset kayak bit came in.

Even getting to the start of the kayak trip involved a Beam scooter. I’m sure normal people would just get an Uber. Still, quite fun if you don’t fall off.
Looks like Ted didn’t fare so well

Pretty much as soon as we launched the kayak, right into full-on wind and waves, I realized this was going to be challenging.  Of course, the front of the kayak takes the brunt of the elements. That’ll be me then.  I was soon blinded by what seemed like buckets of salt water being repeatedly thrown in my face.  The nose of the kayak see-sawed awkwardly over the crashing walls of waves, each time giving me a fresh drenching.  I did my best to continue the arm and shoulder movements but not only was I a little out of practice, I wasn’t expecting quite this level of intensity.  Meanwhile Darren was as encouraging and supportive as always, barking his orders from behind.  Something about paddling harder.

Kayaks all lined up, eager to go. Our island destination of Rangitoto that little peak in the distance, all the way out there.
Arrived safe and sound into the calmer waters of Rangitoto harbour
Descending Rangitoto peak at dusk, the Sky Tower and CBD skyline all lit up pretty

I was dreading a traumatic re-run on the return journey, especially with the stakes ramped up in the dark.  But oh what a difference in the conditions. The wind had mostly dropped and what there was, was behind us.  It was oh so peaceful, like gliding across a vast mesmerizing pool of black glass.  What felt like gentle ripples aided us from the rear, and our paddles lapped in unison.  Tiny lights onshore in the distance were all we needed to guide us.  It was approaching midnight and my body succumbed to a relaxed rhythmic trance of paddling, maybe not fully awake after a week of silly o’clock starts.  

Ready to leave Rangitoto on the long paddle back. Terrible picture – doesn’t do it justice but well, you get the picture. Such a surreal and awesome experience.

All those lovely sunrises during the week and just our luck, Seabourn Odyssey rocks up to a grey cloudy morning.

Here she comes!
Trying to get ‘the’ shot, LOL
I was pretty much bursting with excitement to have our ship dock right outside our place, just hours before we were due to board

The anticipation for this Christmas and New Year cruise had been building for some time. I was so so so nearly pencils down with work (Darren even more so!), and we were full of excitement for the next two weeks. It was a joy to step onboard and receive a friendly signature Seabourn welcome. In our suite, amid a slew of personalized Welcome Onboard notes, was a delightful platter of Christmas niceties, a bottle of red wine, a stunning bunch of flowers, and the obligatory bottle of champagne. Don’t mind if we do!

As we backed out of the wharf, we waved a final goodbye to our swanky waterfront pad all the way on the far right, and to Auckland
And just in case we should forget where we are, what we’re doing or which suite we’re in, we decorated our cabin door. Time to get into the Christmas spirit!

Mellow Yellow Coloradow

We’ve been using the 1 Second Everyday app for a good few years now to string together a whole load of short videos overlaid with music, in order to provide a documentary of our travels. But I think the initial inspiration for the app when they designed it was to see how things change over time – I’ve seen 1SE compilations of a puppy growing up or a baby’s first few months. How about then, an aspen tree’s daily journey from summer bloom to fall foliage. That almost imperceptible transition from emerald green to golden yellow. All I had to do was pick a tree, any tree, and take the same one second video shot of it every day throughout our month’s stay in Keystone, Colorado. Better pick one that’s handy then, one that I’ll see every day, oh here we go, a prime specimen on our balcony.

Hmm, well that prime specimen did its damnedest to hold out on me. It soon caught on to me filming it every day, only there was some miscommunication around the purpose. There was me, patiently waiting for the tiniest signs of yellow, egging it on to change color. And there was the tree, exhibiting classic Hawthorne effect as it realized it was being watched and wanted to show off its glorious green leaves for as long as possible. While all around, the other aspens were giving in to their seasonal coming of age, my one insisted it could be the bestest greenest tree around. The whole damn month. Seriously. Of all the trees in all the world… and I had to pick this one.

I’m actually not going to subject you to the video, only for you to conclude that you wasted 30 seconds of your life. Here’s the photo version that should take a mere few seconds instead…

More an exercise of changes in sky than changes in leaf color
Ooh hang on, I spy with my little eye, a single yellow leaf!
Nope, false alarm. I resort to a few different camera angles in an effort to liven things up a bit and get some autumnal footage from the more advanced specimens in the background
Totally resorted to focusing on the background. 27th September and my tree up front is as proudly hanging out in its green summer suit as it was on 2nd September

Meanwhile, the neighbor’s trees on 15th September…

Apart from my disastrous attempt at documenting a single tree’s autumnal journey, we needn’t have worried about missing out on fall. Half way through September, that cold snap brought about the first sprinkles of icing sugar snow on the mountains, and all around the aspens took that as their cue.

Despite the chillier mornings, we continued to take it in turns to cycle round the lake into work.

One morning’s bike ride into work was particularly memorable. I leapt off my bike to snap a photo of the stunning rainbow appearing before me. Only for the elements to create a perfect storm in the mountains, the rainbow emerging like a phoenix from the flames into a fully formed end to end wonder of nature. One of life’s little special moments.

What goes up must come down and the rainbow disappeared as quickly as it came, leaving me to face the sudden deluge of rain, albeit with the biggest smile on my face. And what goes into work must come home again, so sometimes we cycled back in the evening.

The view when driving back wasn’t bad either…

And just like that, it’s back to cycling on a weekend 🙂

I think I may have mentioned the importance of hydration on a bike ride!

One particular watering hole had horse parking right outside the bar. Bikes to the left, horses to the right.

For the final Colorado weekend, we took a little road trip out to see some different fall scenery. We took the bikes of course 🙂

The ride we did to Maroon Bells, near Aspen, was fall to a tee. A perfect day for riding, with crisp clear skies and seasonal colors all around (making up for the poor showing on the balcony!)

The stunning vista of Maroon Bells. Although I have to say shortly after I saw a similar but more stunning picture on the internet from this exact spot. It still had the striking swathes of yellow aspens but the mountains were posing in winter white and instead of me in the foreground, there were a couple of moose

Over the Kebler pass was a super pretty drive, albeit still a tad early for peak colors.

We took to our feet near Crested Butte, to give our butts a rest from the saddle.

Unbeknown to us when we decided to stay the night in Crested Butte, this coincided with Vinotok, a local festival to celebrate the transition from summer to fall. (Obviously my balcony tree didn’t get an invite!) Sounds harmless enough, in fact if I was playing that game of Balderdash where you make up word definitions, I think I’d go with “a joyous pagan festival of wine drinking, merriment and celebration”.

The word Vinotok actually translates as ”all that dies shall be reborn”. Otherwise known as ”Burn the Grump”. This is but a taste of what we got…

There was certainly wine drinking and pagan celebration. A wreath of twigs and flowers was almost mandatory – as you can see, someone took pity on me and gave me their very sorry for itself wilting version. With that, we joined the throng of a thousand marauders in a massive costume party parading down the main street.

The night was dark but all around burned torches of fire, held aloft by jovial revellers. We moved ceremoniously along, shoulder to shoulder with characters wearing medieval masks, intricate face paint and decorative elk-horn headwear. All this to an increasingly riotous chant of ”Burn the Grump, Burn the Grump”. The event culminated in a massive bonfire amidst more chanting and ceremonious drum thumping.

What a bizarre night!

Our final week in Colorado gave us peak color.

We spent a fab evening with our friend from Evo, Aaron who invited us over for dinner and a sunset stroll with his dog, Wilson.

All that was left was the long road trip home…

… with a slight diversion to Mountain Tap brewery in Steamboat Springs, for this…

On our way via dinosaur country.

And a quick stop at the Bonneville salt flats before home.

The last word however, goes to my Como bike. My pride and joy. My new lease of life. At the start of this month long trip, I set a goal to ride 100 miles. That seemed a bit low for an ebike to Darren, so he upped my goal for me to 250 miles for the month. Meanwhile, rather than set his own mileage goal, Darren decided his goal would be to just beat my overall mileage for the month. OK, game on.

My total mileage for the month: 525 miles 🙂 Job done!

Countdown to Fall

We’re no strangers to Vegas. As the party city lies smack en route to Colorado, five hours in, this tends to be our go-to first night stopover. Many a time, we keep it clean and lay low in the ‘burbs. On other occasions like this one, we just can’t help ourselves. We feel the need and we feed that need to hit The Strip.

The added incentive of a brewery
The Strip view from Brewdog

Well that made for a long next day’s drive! But just like that, we found ourselves back in our second home – Summit County, Colorado.

Much as we were taken with the view from the balcony we had from our last spot in Dillon, we felt we needed something larger than hobbit-sized. So we went to the other extreme this time in Keystone, with a ridiculously large 3-bed 3-bath property to rattle around in.

Our mansion and swimming pool.
Kind of. That’s actually two houses, ours was on the right hand side. And the pool and hot tubs were for the whole residential area, not just us.
Just us in the hot tub

Ironically, the September weather on the whole was better than in July/August. Dryer anyway. We spent much of our weekends cycling the many miles of bike paths in the area.

We’re very used to seeing fields of sheep back in the UK. But over here, they’re actually pretty rare.

And it is written, any and all good bike rides deserve to be followed by beer…

And then, who’d have thought it, an Oktoberfest festival right on our doorstep in Keystone. Bring out your steins and your lederhosen. Bring out your accordion and get up, get on down to the chicken dance. Otherwise known as the birdy song. Yes really.

“With a little bit of this, and a little bit of that, and you shake your ass, clap clap clap clap”

Back to reality and the working week, which was at least broken up by the 15 mile ride in. Virtually all bike path with the odd super quiet road, I couldn’t imagine a better commute than this. We took it in turns to ride and drive.

One of my favorite little groves of aspens to ride through on the way to work. Unfortunately, I struggle to ride and hold my phone straight at the same time.
A lunchtime stroll in Frisco
The London phone booth at EVO3 is a great place to check in with mum and dad on a FaceTime call

It’s not all cycling you know. We fit a few hikes in too. Up the steep AF trail to Mount Royal, with its breathtaking views down to the town of Frisco. And up Loveland Pass to the Continental Divide.

When we fancied a change of scenery and a change of brewery, we hit up the town of Boulder, just a couple of hours drive away. We missed our Basecamp, especially for little overnight trips, but we found the next best thing.

The beer at Avery is second to none. The Maharaja Imperial IPA is truly the King of Beers. We should know – that’s a pretty extensive tap list and we virtually tried them all!

Another reason to go to Boulder is to fill your face at Voodoo Donuts. They of ”Good things come in pink boxes”. It has to be said, the Americans like their donuts. And the Americans certainly know how to do donuts. And these are no ordinary donuts.

Their signature Voodoo Doll donut is loosely figure shaped, loaded with chocolate icing and bears a scary monster face in a grimace. It has a kiss of death pretzel bludgeon thrust into its body. And the best bit – when you bite into it, blood-like raspberry jam comes oozing out. The Maple Bacon Bar donut was another hit, slathered in sticky maple syrup icing and topped with a rasher of crispy bacon. I could go on. But to be done with it, we took a baker’s dozen back to the EVO3 co-working office. As you can imagine, we were pretty popular that day!

Inevitably as we reached mid-September, the weather was starting to turn and the temperature was starting to drop. I could barely contain my excitement. Far from the ominous threat of ’winter is coming’, this was the sign I’d been waiting for – me and the trees both – that ’autumn is coming’. The emerald green mountainsides would soon be deluged in golden yellow and I was like a kid counting down to Christmas.

In the meantime, we embraced the oncoming seasonal transformation with pumpkin spiced lattes and cozy nights in, snuggled up by the fire.

Not sure it’s everyone’s American Lifestyle but I’ll take it
And maybe wine and crisps
Ready for fall, bring it on!

Colorado/Utah Summer Holiday

Three weeks down in Colorado, one to go.  Difference being the three weeks was spent mostly working, with just a little bit of playing.  Whereas the last week we get to proper go play, with a week’s holiday from work 🙂 

You could be forgiven for thinking the pictures look remarkably similar, at least they start off that way.  We spent a few more days exploring the Keystone, Frisco, Breckenridge triangle, giving me ample opportunity to play some more with my new toy, my Specialized Como e-bike.

Happy days, totally in my element

Any good bike ride leads to good food and drink, including two of our favorites, Broken Compass brewing and Breckenridge Distillery.  I can highly recommend The Godfather cocktail at the distillery.  “Revenge is a dish (or a cocktail) best served cold”.  Aged blended whiskey and amaretto, stirred and poured over ice, with personalized delivery in a wooden keg to maximize the hit of applewood smoke.  And drama.  And 1SE video opportunities.

One of the quieter cycling routes took me up to the mountain hamlet of Montezuma.  With no pub or post office, it’s pushing it to call this place a village.  Even the Americans wouldn’t have the audacity to call it a city.  Actually, I just looked it up.  According to Wikipedia it’s a ‘town’. Population: 65.  You get the picture.

Slow down, children playing. Maybe. Somewhere. I didn’t see hide nor hair.
Downtown

Lovely as it was to pay a short visit, Montezuma is probably not where it’s happening.  Given we’re looking at coming back later in the year for some autumnal leaf-peeping, we had a good scout around for other Airbnb options.  So the bike riding became a bit of a house hunting initiative, lots of fun cycling around and poking at the outside of houses.

Darren unfortunately had to spend a bit of time recuperating from a cold of man-flu proportions.  Luckily he still had the balcony to gaze out upon the lake wistfully.  While my e-bike pride and joy had pride of place in the living room for charging.

There was even chance to do some blogging before we set off home

Another Colorado fan favorite would have to be Rocky Mountain National Park.  During Covid times, they introduced timed entry into the park, whereby you have to book in advance a two hour time slot for when you want to enter the park.  And then they kept it going afterwards.  Which means you and everyone else who booked for the same two hour time slot are generally going to arrive around the same time at the beginning of the slot, resulting in a lot of waiting in line.  

Queuing is not one of my fortes at the best of times.  Luckily, there is a loophole.  Just get there before 9am and you’re good.  Simples.  Even with a two hour drive for us to get there, this was very do-able.  And the later you leave it, the busier it gets.  So if there’s one day worth setting your alarm for early, this is it.

Next up, Crested Butte.  An impossibly beautiful mountain/lake setting that is classic Colorado.  We were last here on our very first Covid road trip three years ago, and did one of my favorite hikes ever. This time around, more bike porn I’m afraid.

We did separate bike rides so whoever got back first got to choose the pub.  That would be me then.  I opted for Eldo brewery & tap room… “a sunny place for shady people”.  Complete with sunny balcony, that’ll do nicely.

Followed by pizza at Secret Stash. You can’t go too far wrong with pizza. This one was the Notorious Fig.

One of the things we miss about living in the UK, is being so close to Europe.  Yup, that ability to immerse yourself into a different culture, scenery and climate at the drop of a hat should not be underestimated.  

Some of our most memorable European holidays included hiking to mountain huts or lodges, in the Alps, the Dolomites, even the Spanish Sierra Nevada.  You could only get to these places by hiking into remote mountain locations.  And once there, you were transported to a world more basic than we’re used to.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s a definite step up from backpacking, you have your own bed, food and drink.  (And let’s face it, the older you get, the more averse to camping hardships you get; at least I do).  But in these huts, we had a sense of camaraderie with others who had also hiked in, with their own sense of adventure, their own stories to tell.  A feeling of escaping from the monotony of work to the fresh air, with nothing to worry about other than the freedom of where tomorrow’s hiking would take us.  And there was a glass of wine or two on hand to toast to that.

There is nothing equivalent in the US.  There are some basic mountain huts in Colorado but they are just an itty bitty step up from backpacking, the main difference being a roof over your head vs carrying your tent.  Nothing where you can be treated to a good meal and bed at the end of a day’s hiking in the mountains.  That is, until Hayden Mountain Backpacking Lodge came along.  It’s early days for HMBL and unfortunately no other hikers on the night we hiked in and stayed over.  But that remote sense of being far from the beaten track, having walked in on your own two feet (one of those feet being, for me – let’s face it, a little delicate to say the least), had that same element of accomplishment and remoteness without hardship.  

Our starting point of Ouray
Things got a little soggy on the way up. Foot holding up well tho.
So many awesome mountain vistas along the way
Some late summer blooms as we worked our way up
In the mountains, surrounded by the mountains
C’mon H, keep up!
While we were the only hard core hikers, the jeep trail was a popular tourist superhighway
Yay, we made it. Our home from home, MHBL for the night
Cosy inside
To top off our evening accommodation, the most adorable and welcoming gentle dog, Brie
Once up there, there were more mountain vistas to explore
And who’d have thought it this late in the season, a meadow bursting with sunny wildflowers
You’ve got to get up close and personal to get the best shots

With the benefit of time, we spent a few days roadtripping the route home, instead of the mad rush to do a thousand miles in a day and a half.  After working our way through Colorado via Crested Butte and Ouray, we hit up Moab in Utah.

After the blues and greens of Colorado lakes and mountains, Utah is very orange, red and brown.  If you’re ever doing one of those pictures where the pixels are made from individual photos, Utah could be your staple for those sandy ochre tones.  Arches National Park was first on the list but unfortunately had limited cycling options. Luckily we’ve been there before, so didn’t feel like we were missing out, and the nearby cycle paths offered ample miles of alternatives.

You may have noticed all the action shots on the bike tend to be of me. That’s because I’m too clumsy and can’t be trusted with one handed riding and multi-tasking without risking dropping the phone or crashing into something
Our cosy cabin style motel for the night
The view from our balcony

Dead Horse Point State Park was a new one on us.  And definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area.  The western rim trail offered stunning views and an awesome walk for me while Darren hit up some mountain biking trails.

Last but not least on the way home was Zion national park.  

Another great balcony view from our motel

The most fabulous aspect of Zion is that much of it is closed off to traffic, allowing only shuttle buses and bikes to use the road.  Yes, you read that right – bikes.  Genius idea. What an experience to cruise along the virtually empty roads surrounded by sheer rock walls of awesomeness.  

Again, the best advice I can give is to go early.  The US National Parks are a downfall of their own success.  As we were leaving, the park was starting to look like a zoo.  With humans as the exhibits.  

Go early… or do yourself a favor and go to a state park instead.  Go early… or go home.  Or be like us.  Go early AND go home.  Destination California.

Frisco 2023

You might wonder what on earth I can find to write about a place we’ve visited so many times before.  Frankly I’m wondering the same… it might be mostly photos!  

One of the journey for starters… an overnight in Vegas made for a nice sunrise view

As a reminder, Frisco is where it all started.  Back in the deep dark Covid days of Summer 2020 – our first experience working remotely at a co-working office together and our first three month road trip.  Fast-forward to 2023 and this will be trip #5 to Frisco!

Given we’re staying in one place for a month this time instead of traveling around, we opted for the more permanent Airbnb option, sans-BaseCamp.  (Sorry BaseCamp!). Our previous Frisco trips had us camping at Peak One & Pine Cove campgrounds, right on the reservoir peninsular – outdoor living with picture postcard views.  So we weren’t about to slum it in a back of beyond apartment – a lake/reservoir view was number one on our list of requirements.  Space, we could compromise on (and we did), but not the view.  And so it was we ended up in Dillon, the next town over to Frisco.  And this was the view from our balcony.

Happy with that!

Funnily enough, we spent a fair amount of time on our balcony.

The result… bbq salmon in a wrap with mango salsa, arugula (rocket), creme fraiche and spicy jalapenos
Chorizo watermelon salad
Mmm, my favorite, courtesy of our recent UK trip
The apartment from the outside
Mountain weather in July. Beats people watching.
Not just rain, this one was a hail storm!
Time to skip the bbq on the balcony and rustle up a steaming bowl of chilli instead

We arrived in Colorado just in time to celebrate my birthday 🙂 

As luck would have it, there happened to be a beer festival on in nearby Breckenridge.  There was me in a ‘boot’, having had my foot diagnosed with a stress fracture, and there was this great (and free!) bus triangle, which came almost but not quite close enough to our place for me to hobble there.  Turns out everyone’s having far too much fun out hiking, biking, paddle boarding and the like to think that driving for Uber is a good thing to do on a weekend.  Which made logistics a bit of a challenge.

Where there’s a will there’s a way – we made it!
Colorado beer and a pretzel necklace, happy birthday to me 🙂

And speaking of celebrating, there was some great birthday free stuff in the mix. Whilst Dillon was our weekend and evening base, it was back to Frisco for work.  We were welcomed back to EVO3 – the co-working office, like old friends by Aaron, the owner. Constant reminders of the outdoors and beer on tap.  What’s not to love.

Just because I had a dodgy foot, there was no reason for Darren to miss out on his morning outdoor fun and games, so he squeezed in a few cool bike rides before work.  

Me?  I enjoyed a lazy few weeks where my mornings consisted of a bit of lie in (like normal people?) before starting work at 8am.  And the odd scenic morning wander.

Sapphire Point Overlook
The name of the local sweet shoppe was quite fitting

But my invalid state didn’t stop us getting out and about for a few scenic drives… 

The imaginatively named peaks surrounding this area start at Peak 1 just behind Mount Royal and Mount Victoria in Frisco.   Up they go towards Breckenridge, Peak 2, Peak 3… etc. We did a 4X4 scenic drive in the truck up the Peak 9 road from Breckenridge up high into what is prime ski country in the winter.  

And we finished up with awesome Vietnamese pho back in Breck

There’s something quite cool about going over the Continental Divide.  And we hadn’t been able to attempt Independence Pass with the BaseCamp, no trailers allowed on windy mountain hairpin roads (and for good reason!).

At The Stew Pot in Snowmass – this home made spicy lentil & sausage soup was one of my absolute favorite meals of the trip

One thing I’m very much not impeded from doing is a boat ride.  I can sit on Aaron’s boat chilling out with a cocktail, as he obligingly tours us around Dillon reservoir, as well as I ever could.  Every time is different and it’s the weather challenges that kick the level of adventure up a notch.

Aaron at the helm
The calm before the storm, flat as a mill pond
Enjoying the ride(s)!
The one that turned into a torrential downpour

No boat ride is complete without a little trip to the Tiki Bar, a very low key container bar at Dillon marina that punches above its weight in awesome cocktails. It also happens to be our local.

And then there’s our other favorite haunt. Outer Reach Brewery in Frisco has a mountain view that you never tire of, a wide range of IPAs to choose from, and a thai franchise that specializes in the most delicious fried chicken. Just go easy on ’the bird’ sauce or it will blow your head off.

Not forgetting Prosit, if you’re a fan of German beer and sausages. Which we are!

Sausage sampler
Prost! Celebrating with some of my Colorado-based teammates from work, what a great opportunity to get together
Oh and there we are back on the boat again

We were surrounded by the outdoors – bombarded with stunning lakeside views and breathing the fresh clear mountain air. And so I have to admit to being a tad frustrated at the no hiking/ no running rule. Bring on my savior – the electric bike!

You could say things escalated pretty quickly. I believe it was Darren’s suggestion initially for me to rent an electric bike one afternoon. With no intention or expectation that this would lead to me buying one. But I was sold that quickly. As I felt the wind rush past me, the speed gave me a sense of freedom that had been somewhat lacking the last few weeks. I was finally able to appreciate the Colorado I know and love.

And so by the following weekend I had my very own Specialized Como Class 1 e-bike, complete with Integrated Gear Hub. Without getting too technical, this means the gears feel like they’re on a smooth sliding scale, no annoying clicking or clunking or dropping of the chain.

Como, my Como, you have given me a new lease of life. I didn’t think I could love a bike more than my California beach cruiser, but I was wrong. I guess there’s a time and a place.

So come on then Colorado – let’s be having ya!

My new prized possession
My morning commute to work across the Dillon Dam…
… and over the boardwalk skirting the marina. 6 or 7 miles each way, with bike path the entire way
A longer weekend adventure on the Rio Grande trail
Up to the very scenic Maroon Bells
Told you, very scenic. Nice rainbow thing going on too.
Officially in moose country

Bend 2023

The lengthy roadtrips we’ve done in the Basecamp over the last few years have been a great ‘introduction’ to the US. As in, they’ve allowed us to appreciate many different places, albeit fleetingly. A week here, a few days there, all while working full time. An awesome and enriching period in our lives – however the urge to see so much and experience different places has limited our in-depth intimacy with the towns and cities along the way.

One thing our road trips have given us (over and above a much improved knowledge of American geography) is insight into where to go back to. It’s a bit like a cruise that way… you get to visit lots of different ports and/or countries and can decide where you’d like to go back to for a longer vacation.

All this by way of background as to why we decided to leave the Basecamp behind for a change and spend three full weeks grounded in one spot. That spot being Bend in central Oregon. Go back to any of the Bend blogs from our previous road trips and you’ll find that “we love, love, LOVE Bend”.

The 800 mile road trip from Santa Clarita to Bend included a pit-stop in Chico, California for an all-important almond croissant or two from Stobl coffee shop, and an opportunity to stretch our legs in Sisson Meadows in Mount Shasta. Both familiar to us from our road trips and conveniently located along the way.

Taking a welcome break from sitting in the truck to sit on a bench

The method in our madness of driving up over Memorial Day weekend meant that we still had some weekend left to do stuff by the time we arrived. Top of our list was nearby Smith Rock State Park. A friend had described it as ”insanely cool rock formations” and he was not wrong. The jagged basalt Smith Rock rose 600 feet over the Crooked River in a sheer cliff-face, with other impressive rock formations beset by the eager climbing community.

We chose to hike Misery Ridge (that of steep wooden steps clinging to a rough, crumbling trail with crazy hairpins), definitely worth it for the rewarding views. Sheer ’tuff’ pinnacles in the foreground, the wide meandering Crooked River in the valley far below, ‘tiny’ mansions and homesteads dotted among vibrant green fields and farmland, and on the distant horizon – the immaculate snow-cloaked peaks of Mount Bachelor and the three Sisters (plus a couple of other mountains I don’t know the names of).

What a place! Misery Ridge took us up and over that rock behind to my left

And then you have Monkey Face rock. Which kind of looked a bit like a monkey face if you squinted at it the right way. More impressive were the insane climbers about to attempt the sheer walls of its non-monkey body.

Our home for the next three weeks was an Airbnb nestled among the pine trees of the Mount Bachelor Village Resort. It provided an alternative workspace when we fancied a change from the co-working office, it had a cozy fire for the few evenings that turned chilly, and there was a spacious balcony large enough for not only the grill/BBQ but also the three bikes we’d brought with us.

Two of the three bikes. And the grill in full swing.
The result! With mint sauce of course

Before and after work, recreation was heavily centered around the Deschutes river, which ran past our apartment complex and all through town. A trail ran alongside, the perfect setting for many a training run, a commute to/from work or a stroll to check out the wildlife.

Darren even managed to get a bit of Stand Up Paddle-boarding in.

All of this bookended the working day but let’s face it, there’s worse environments to be working in. Even the Haven co-working space had a view of the river. Not to mention an open deck and beer on tap, perfect for a happy hour drink after work.

And when we were not recreating or working, there’s always eating and drinking to be done, including a couple of upscale experiences. My favorite was probably the steakhouse Rancher Butcher Chef or RBC. The steak tartare was sublime and the hangar steak delicious but that’s not why it was my favorite. That space in my heart was reserved for the piece de resistance, the sherry flight. I don’t know who was more excited about this, me or the lady serving me who had spent a couple of years in Jerez and was passionate about her sherry choices. And let’s face it, I don’t think she sells many.

His n hers version of a bacon-wrapped date to go with the sherry

We were also very fortunate to bag a table at Ariana for their six course tasting menu and wine pairing.

In case you’re concerned, the half a radish and focaccia bread was an amuse bouche and not one of the official six courses
Just the one scallop but the aromatic carrot curry bisque poured on tableside completed the dish perfectly
Amazing pasta at Bosa

The extra time we had from being centered in one destination for three weeks allowed us to really embrace the experience of living in Bend. And yet we still got to explore a little further afield. Including Palisades Cove State Park, Tumalo Falls, the Cascade Lakes scenic byway and for old times sake, a walk up Pilot Butte.

Palisades Cove
The view from Pilot Butte over Bend on a stormy day
The rather splendid Tumalo Falls
Mount Bachelor displaying his best side in Elk Lake
The ‘highly recommended’ walk to Blue Lagoon. Personally, I’d highly recommend you stay away on account of the mozzies.

It was a good job we brought our bikes with us, because there was no shortage of mountain biking, road biking and pootling along bike paths to be done. And then there’s the McKenzie Pass. At an elevation of over 5,000 ft, this road is snowbound and closed in winter. Come the spring and there’s a magical window after which it’s been ploughed and before it’s open to cars. Bingo.

It’s a most spectacular ride, starting with a lung-piercing incline and the lowest of the low gears. There’s thick forest on both sides, eventually emerging at Windy Point to a stark, barren moonscape. The rocky ex-lava flow extends as far as you can see. The view is awe-inspiring – once you catch your breath.

Given the ride was all along the road, it was fair to say it was somewhat dominated by road bikes. And more than the odd electric bike thrown in. Needless to say I was on the only mountain bike I saw all day. It’s a good job I have no ego as cyclist after cyclist overtook me. I just trundled on at my own pace, loving the fresh air and the sense of achievement.

Windy Point. Luckily Darren had his road bike with him.

And then there’s this little spot, less than a mile from our place but sometimes it’s just easier to bike. A secluded hideout on the rocks, with an awesome view of the river and just perfect for chilling out with a beer and people watching. Aka watching the crazy people jump into the river.

On the more casual side of eating and drinking, Bend outdoes itself with food truck hubs and breweries. It’s a bit like chilling out in a beer garden of an English pub, with picnic tables scattered on a lawn… sitting in the afternoon sun sipping a cold beer and trying to decide between wood fired pizza or spicy Mexican tacos.

Beer garden at Deschutes brewery
Cool bar made from a barrel
Delicious Boone Dog Pizza at The Barn hub in Sisters
Huddled around the fire pit at Good Life Brewing
Keeping it healthy at Active Culture
Even Darren’s going to struggle to drink all that

And when the weather’s not all that, there are perfectly acceptable inside options too…

Worthy Brewing
Cascade Lakes brewery. Not the best beer truth be told
One of my favorites: Monkless

Good job we like to balance all that eating and drinking with something a bit more energetic. Our last weekend entailed the finale of what we’d been working up to with our training – a one mile ’run’ up Pilot Butte hill, a half marathon for me and a sprint triathlon for Darren, courtesy of Pacific Crest Endurance Events. Well organized, perfect weather and a lot of fun.

Slogging up Pilot Butte
The half marathon, featuring the ever-present Deschutes River
Triathlon day… starting with the river swim…
Such a beautiful setting
… bike…
… run
… and the fourth element of any good triathlon – beer!

All that was left was to celebrate our event successes and close out a fabulous three weeks at Bangers & Brews. And yes, I can confirm that we still do love, love, LOVE Bend!

Christmas in Columbia

After three hectic weeks living the Selina digital nomad life in Bogota, Medellin and Cartegena, it was time to pause the bean counting, down tools, and power off the laptops.  It’s like that Friday feeling, only better – because we knew when Monday came around, we’d still have a week’s holiday left.  Big smiles all around.

First up was Tayrona National Park, a tropical paradise with Caribbean beaches and lush rainforest.  We were staying at Finca Barlovento, an upscale lodge style retreat where the River Pledras meets the sea.  A perfect oasis to spend Christmas.  

We embraced Christmas Day sunrise with an early romantic stroll on the beach.  We chilled out in the afternoon with cocktails by the pool.  And my Christmas treat was the most awesome full body massage in an open cabana, surrounded by nature.  The squawking and screeching of the resident parrots only added to the ambience.  In fact it reminded me of the time in Zimbabwe when I had a massage in similar circumstances, a rare pampering treat while traveling.  Half naked and half asleep at the end of the massage, that time I was rudely awakened by a mischievous playful lion cub wanting in on the action.

Back in the day
Back in the present – sunrise on Christmas Day
Guess we’ll save the swimming for another day
Breakfast with a view
It’s easy to miss the parrot for the hummingbird
The great-tailed Grackles that hung out around the restaurant were even more vocal than the parrots
Sundowners on the balcony
As dusk turned to evening, the swimming pool and surrounding rainforest were illuminated. (The all-essential bug spray to hand on the table).

It was so relaxing to wind down and escape completely, feeling a long long way from the hectic hurried normality of the day to day.  Despite the remote isolation of the place, I was very pleased to find they had wifi.  We got to speak to most of the rellies to say hi and Merry Christmas.  And of course, no Christmas is complete without Love Actually, downloaded to the iPad and watched in bed with a baileys.

But not until we’d checked out the tiki bar
Don’t mind if I Mai Tai

Next up was Minca, a tiny off-the-beaten-path mountain village.  

Minca is gradually becoming more on-the-beaten-path for hip backpackers and those in the know, which I guess includes us.  Darren had booked us into a rather unusual Airbnb – a tree house.  Or more accurately, a tree tower.  And I have to say he rather excelled himself.  It was quite the structure – crafted from bamboo, it resembled a tall mushroom (think very large very tall mushroom) with a flamboyant leaf-shaped roof.

Selva Minca, our home for two nights

From the ground-level open bathroom (with running hot water), a narrow winding staircase took us up to the next level, minimally yet tastefully decked out.  Above that, the king sized bed was draped with a mossie net like a grand four-poster, and a French press was on standby for morning coffee. The jungle views were expansive and impressive, whether we enjoyed them seated on the high top bar stools, relaxing horizontally in the hammock, or splashing around in the open shower.

There was a river nearby for soaking in.  While Darren immersed himself in the experience and the water, I enjoyed a little paddle, for the cool relief it gave to my swollen bite-infested ankles. We also used a local guide to accompany us on a hike to some of Minca’s hidden waterfalls.

Insta vs Reality lol

Leaving Minca behind, we had a l-o-n-g journey ahead of us to get to Bucaramanga.  Three reasons to go to Bucaramanga – one, because Diego, Darren’s Columbian colleague lived there; two – there’s not really anywhere else remotely suitable for tourists to stay overnight between Minca and Bogota; and three – because it’s just such a cool name!

The hire car we picked up in Cartagena hadn’t been put to the test much as yet.  Not by us anyway – I have to say it’s the most beat up, dented, dinted, scraped, scratched and bashed up excuse for a hire car I’ve ever seen.  I guess they didn’t bother fixing anything ‘cosmetic’.

We were reliably informed by Waze that our 330 mile journey would take us at least 11 hours.  True story.  Think narrow busy roads where you take your life in your hands every step of the way.  There is no concept of a bypass so every town and every village involved endless speed bumps, hawkers stepping into the road selling all sorts of random stuff, and mopeds whizzing by any which way.  Then came the mountain roads – very scenic but steep and windy with trucks crawling at snail’s pace, cars overtaking on blind corners, and cruel potholes poised to take you out ninja-style.

Somehow, 12 hours later, we made it in one piece (well, we were both in one piece – the car was almost in one piece, something did fall off after one of those pothole assassinations).  A few deep breaths and beers with Diego were needed for normality to be restored.  

Also in Bucaramanga, a tamarind margarita at a Mexican bar, El Patron
Darren feeling unusually adventurous tried a ‘Gomichela’. This turned out to be a michelada with Corona, tangy Chamoy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, a tamarind chilli rim, and gummies (or ’gomitas’). He has forever regretted this drink choice.
Looking at this picture even now turns my stomach. The rainbow gummies (sour fizzy sweets) fizzed and bubbled in the drink like a witch’s brew, turning slimy and sticky in the already sour liquid that resembled anything but beer. No thanks.

The last stop on our Columbia holiday was Barichara, one of the prettiest villages in the country.  Think colonial architecture with sandstone churches, whitewashed houses with red tile roofs and brightly painted doors, and narrow cobbled streets.  It reminded me very much of a Spanish village.

Those narrow cobbled streets posed their own particular challenge as we tried to navigate to the Trip Monkey hostel we were staying at.  Google Maps was no use, it just wasn’t working.  Waze was missing at least half the streets.  And Apple Maps made up its own imaginary streets.  Between them all, we ended up at a dead end along what we’d thought was a one way street.  A brief yelling match and a 7 point turn was all it took to resolve 🙂 

Pizza and pasta with a view into the drying room where the home made pasta lay in wait to be plunged in hot water for the next lucky diners
A handy way to get around
This tiny patio was all but deserted just 5 minutes prior.  We’d ensconced ourselves there for a quiet drink away from the busy bar, only to be inundated with a dozen others with the same idea.
Feeling Christmassy in the evening
A lovely meal at La Puerta Secret Kitchen. An enchanted garden setting and such a well kept secret, we were the only ones there.

The initial intention was for Darren to do some mountain biking but the worlds didn’t align and he was stuck with me and a hike through the beautiful surrounding countryside.  We had stunning mountain views the whole way, interrupted only by the local ‘wildlife’ – a herd of cows, excited to be getting their lunch (those funny cows with humps on their backs), and some goats on leashes, out and about for their daily walk.

We arrived into the neighboring village of Guane with low expectations, which it massively exceeded.  It was another delightfully pretty whitewashed village, with the most laid back understated mirador bar. Give me a beer with a view and some sun and you have one very happy chick.

And there you have it… our Christmas in Columbia was brought to a close in the paradise of Guane. All that was left was a New Years Eve meal (and an early night) at the Marriott in Bogota before our early morning flight home. As we presented our American passports (for the first time flying into the US as American citizens), we were greeted with a smile and a ”Welcome Home!” 🙂

Columbia Week 3: Cartagena

Another flight, another Columbian city and another heat upgrade.  Our final week in the run up to Christmas was in Cartagena and we felt the tropical Caribbean heat as soon as we stepped off the plane.  The most touristy destination so far, Cartagena really had a relaxed holiday vibe.

We were staying at, yes you guessed it, another Selina.  In addition to the standard co-working area, this one boasted a rooftop terrace with a classic sea view, a taco bar (and beverage bar) and a pool.  The perfect place for a leisurely breakfast, a sundowner cocktail, or a video call for the work Christmas party.

The inspired, understated yet romantically beautiful Christmas ’book’ tree in a Selina corridor
The comfiest bed since we left the Seabourn ship

Selina was situated in the Getsemani neighborhood, which boasted a lively street art scene.  

Just one of many squares buzzing with nightlife and street entertainment

We were but a stone’s throw from the walled Old Town, we just had to negotiate the Christmas decorations along the way – all quiet in the heat and humidity of the midday sun but oh so mobbed at night.  

The Old Town, founded in the sixteenth century, was a maze of cobbled alleyways amongst colorful colonial buildings.  Walking the historic city walls, both here and around the San Felipe de Barajas fort, gave us an opportunity to immerse ourselves in the history and culture of the place, while taking in the impressive architecture.

Not the most amazing pic to showcase what was actually some amazing birdlife. Colorful parrots and parakeets fresh from the paintshop, and beady-eyed hawks. And pigeons. There’s always pigeons.

With both the Old Town and Getsemani on our doorstep, there was no shortage of bars and restaurants to check out.

I’ll have a ’coffee ritual’ please
No surprise that Darren found a beer bar
Just a small platter for two (going on six)
Delicious garlic prawns at a tiny side street restaurant – two tables this side of the street and two on the other side…
…under the watchful eye of the rather regal looking local cat
The way too cool for school trendy bar Alquimico

And just like that, it was Friday 23rd December and our last night in Cartagena. We had that fabulous ‘Happy Friday, Happy Christmas, no more work til next year’ wind-down feeling. What better way to indulge that feeling than by watching the sun go down over a margarita.

Or a beer

To mix things up a bit, I ordered a grand sounding cocktail with mezcal, ginger, gin and tonic. It was served in a golden goblet nearly as big as my head.

Darren modeling said goblet for scale

After that, it was pretty much game over. We politely thanked the locals on the way out. Who quite frankly looked like they’d seen better days, a little on the pale and skinny side.

Christmas in Columbia…? Bring it on!

Columbia Week 2: Medellin

Having somewhat recovered from the onslaught of returning to work in a busy period, we moved on from Columbia’s capital to its second largest city – Medellin.  Medellin is known as ‘the City of Eternal Spring’ because of its perfect climate (although my sun-loving self couldn’t help but wonder if there’s a City of Endless Summer somewhere in the world that might be more up my street).  Upon landing in Medellin, I was pleasantly surprised to find it much warmer than in Bogota.

Another thing that Medellin, and indeed Columbia, is known for is its friendly people.  We could attest to a positive vibe so far but what really makes the difference is the chance to get to know some of the locals.  As luck would have it, Darren had a Colombian colleague from work, Diego, who didn’t live in Medellin but a five hour drive away.  Diego and his mum had benevolently offered to meet up with us and be our travel hosts for the weekend.  We were greeted at the airport like long lost friends and the welcoming hospitality continued from there.

In the 80s and 90s, Medellin was considered the most dangerous city in the world, with urban war declared between drug cartels leading to violence and terror on the streets.  District 13 in particular was one of the poorer barrio communities that embodied Pablo Escobar’s Medellin.  Further political troubles ensued in the early 2000s but over the last twenty years, this place has seriously reinvented itself.  

With a Spanish speaking local guide (and Diego for handy translation!), we spent a good few hours touring District 13, learning about the troubled history and experiencing what it had now become.  The community was vibrant and buzzing, street dancers shaking their booty and anything else they could with such vigor and energy.  

‘Skill Flavor’ – upbeat & feisty

There was also a flourishing art scene, with a super cool glow in the dark genre.  My inner 80s chick (the one of mismatched fluorescent socks and sweatbands) was awakened; I was in my element.

Check out that cheeky grin, I think Darren enjoyed the luminous experience as much as me 🙂
How did I not end up with this jacket? It has to be the coolest ever. I missed a trick!

Urban escalators took us into the heart of District 13. Just re-read that sentence one more time. I mean there were actually escalators in the streets, i.e. outdoors, leading up the steep valley slopes.  We could probably do with some of those in Scarborough!  The rooftop view down over the city and the forested hillsides really topped off the afternoon.

At the other end of town, they’ve gone one better than escalators with a Metrocable system – six different lines of gondola style cable cars extending up the hillsides, providing transportation to the masses.

Time for a cheeky Club Colombia beer at the top
No, all those lines aren’t cable car lines. Electricity here is something else!

A popular day trip from Medellin is the nearby town of Guatape, less than 50 miles away.  But when it comes to Columbia, you have to re-think your expectations on times and distances.  This would supposedly be a two hour jaunt each way.  But that was before they threw in some roadworks.  Add to that the creativity of Waze’s driving app and we found ourselves pootling along narrow winding dirt roads in the back of beyond for three hours.  Diego, as designated driver, had the job of avoiding potholes and rocks and dogs, while keeping his fingers crossed that his car would make it.  Safely tucked away on the back seat, I didn’t mind the country scenery and colorful wildflowers one bit.

For some time as we approached Guatape, we could see the iconic granite rock formation, el Piedra del Penol towering 200m above its surroundings.  

The rock is nestled amongst lakes and rolling hills, a very pretty area indeed.  We made it up the 700+ steps up the side of the rock to amazing views.  It was the coming down that finished me off.  This brought on a bout of ‘jelly legs’, which I think needs no further description.  Luckily, lunch with a view was right around the corner.

Spending a week working in Medellin was just awesome.  Our home for the week was another Selina – so co-working, hotel, cafe and nightlife all in one.  We were based in the affluent El Poblado area, surrounded by chic cafes (and indeed they redeemed themselves on the coffee front after a poor initial showing in Bogota), cosmopolitan restaurants, museums, shopping, and boutique hotels.  And all this was immersed in rainforest greenery, with native trees, tropical plants, bamboo and palms providing green corridors of shade.  Like a city and a jungle at the same time.

They brought the ’outside’ into the cafe at Selina – this was very typical of many of the venues we visited
Yes that beer was green. The coffee was good though 🙂
Cheers!
Nightlife wasn’t bad either. Especially this rooftop bar, El Mosquito. Although we were the oldest people in there by a country mile!

Darren’s persistence in negotiating the most convoluted baffling booking process ever eventually scored us a reservation at the fine dining El Cielo restaurant in Medellin.  The executive chef, Juanma, is somewhat of an icon in the gastronomic world, with Michelin stars for his unique culinary experiences.  

Just some of the delights. That beetroot rose was something else.

I don’t have the time to walk you through all 18 courses of our tasting experience here; suffice to say an experience it was.  A phenomenal one.  OK, maybe just a little insight into one of our favorite courses.

Note, we already had clean hands from a previous table-side hand washing ritual, followed by a few courses that involved some hand-food interaction.  At this point, we were presented with large bowls on the table in front of us and I was requested to remove my rings.  With our hands cupped over our respective bowls, the waitress poured warm melted 70% chocolate from a height into and onto our hands, some of it dripping teasingly into the bowl below.  We ‘washed’ our hands in the slick chocolate, to which was added generous spoonfuls of sweetened coffee grains.  This was designed to evoke a joyful childhood sensation of playing in a sandpit!  There was a seductive cacao aroma in the air as we massaged the silky smooth chocolate and the fine grains of coffee ‘sand’ into our hands, and only then were we invited to taste and lick the deliciousness from our hands.  I have to tell you… probably the best chocolate I’ve ever tasted.  We both did a very decent job of licking our hands clean until the waitress returned with a jug of warm water to finish the job.  

And now you see why I don’t have the time to cover all the courses of ‘La Experiencia’!

Not the chocolate course. This one was Coffee in the Cloud Forest. Complete with coffee plant. And flowing steam-like clouds.

Not quite to the same level of gastronomic delights as El Cielo, but there was no shortage of great food and drink across El Poblado.

Pizza of course needs no introduction. Top right – shrimp taco shots with a mezcal cocktail served in a howling dog’s head. Underneath – the best pisco sours this side of Cusco.
Darren in his element at Metropole brewery

By this time, we were halfway into December and it wasn’t feeling very Christmassy.  I rather like to be inundated by festive Christmas songs, decorations and lights in the run up to the big day – but the samba beat was definitely winning out against Chris Rea.  

We tried to address this with a visit to the Christmas lights at Parque de la Luz in Medellin. As it turns out, Christmas in Columbia isn’t all about Christmas trees, snowmen and Santa Claus.  Time to readjust our expectations and just enjoy the lights.  Quite spectacular lights at that, although I struggled to quite dig the Disney Encanto theme, all boats, flowers, and larger than life characters.  

Some rather cool fountains

All in, we managed to fit a huge amount into our Medellin visit.  And we’d go back in a heartbeat.  If Columbia is even remotely on your radar, then the City of Eternal Spring is where it’s at. Oh and give me a heads up if you’re going, I’ve got a favor to ask… there’s a certain denim jacket back there with my name on it.

Not a chance of getting a picture of the full Medellin sign….
… but you get the gist!

Columbia week 1: Bogota

South America sounds kind of close to North America.  Believe me, it is not.  What it also is not is due south of North America, although in my simplified mind that’s exactly where it was.  Guess it’s a while since I looked at a globe.  Not only that, South America is massive, and when you’re all the way down in the south of the South, it’s a long long way not only to Tipperary but also to California.  The answer: break up the return journey.

Work restrictions limited our choices, but one country stood out as being a promising option – no work permits needed and pretty much as close to our time zone as we could get in South America.  It also wasn’t on our previous 2003 global adventure itinerary and so was new to us: Columbia.

I have to admit when Darren first proposed Columbia I was a tad skeptical.  Guns and drugs and gangs and shootings.  An unsafe place where we could be robbed at gunpoint, umm, no thanks.  I was assured that my impressions of the country were at best outdated.  The country had come a long way since the days of Pablo Escobar and we’d be just fine.  And just like that, we were going to Columbia.  The plan: to work a week in Bogota, work a week in Medellin, work a week in Cartagena, and finish up with a week’s vacation (somewhere in Columbia) over Christmas, flying back in January to start the new year at home.

Bogota was all a bit of a blur honestly.  After leaving the ship in Ushuaia and flying north, we had a long layover in Buenos Aires and then an overnight flight to Bogota. We rocked up all bleary eyed ready to start work on a Tuesday morning.  Our destination for the week: Selina – the Digital Nomad Hotel Of The Future (according to Forbes).  Beyond the promised creative living and working environment, we were actually very pleased to be greeted with an included breakfast, random though it was.

I must also mention that during our time in Colombia, we learned about various support systems available for different challenges, including addiction recovery. For anyone seeking help in this area, there’s valuable information available at this resources https://www.addictiontreatmentrehab.co.uk/blog/heroin-rehab. For those considering a safe and convenient option for managing withdrawal, click here for more information on detox at home.

Scrambled egg, fresh diced cucumber and tomato, sliced melon and papaya, two types of cheese, hummus, tomato salsa, a slice of toast and a big fat slab of cake

Also rather impressive was the proximity of Selina to the nearest brewery.  Literally right next door.

Selina hotel and co-working space on the left; Bogota Brewing Company on the right
The hotel door sign hangers got the tone about right

So we made it there and not too much further honestly. Although we did partake in the excellent local restaurant scene, with a nice meal out or two.  

And we embraced the Selina lifestyle where our hectic working days blurred traditional boundaries with coffee shops, bars, and the World Cup final. Good job we were so tired when we went to bed for when the late night live music finally ended, the DJ kicked it up a notch. The paper thin walls did little to keep the tunes confined. The Latin salsa beat ran through my head as I drifted off, music and sleep forging an alternate dream-state where penguins pirouetted with footballs in my head and formed a drug-fuelled conga to party the night away.

Our Bogota visit coincided with a national holiday on 7th December: The Day of the Little Candles.  Unofficially, this marks the start of the Christmas season by…. you guessed it, lighting candles.  I’m sure it’s a very lovely and traditional way to bring family and friends together to embrace the upcoming festivities.  For us having very recently arrived in a foreign country, it was a somewhat subdued affair on the hotel front doorstep.  After all, it doesn’t take very long to light a candle.

A little underwhelming on drama and fanfare, but 10/10 for atmosphere
Some rather more glitzy Christmas decorations
And a very weird creepy statue

By the end of the week, we had recovered sufficiently to spend a little time before work doing something touristy.  And the most touristy thing to do in Bogota is take the funicular up the Montserrat mountain that dominates the city.  

When you’re immersed at ground level, the hustle and bustle of the city is all-consuming.  There’s a sense of urgency peppered with beeping and honking of impatient traffic, weaving of motorbikes, and yelling of street side vendors.  The funicular on the other hand took us into a different world.  The views were breathtaking and the change of pace like a weight off our shoulders. For the first time we were able to “see” Bogota.

View from the funicular window, super steep and v cool
On the way up. The voiceover told us that Montserrat has up to 40,000 visitors a day on a high season weekend. Luckily for us, it was early doors and not a weekend.
Just in case you’re in any doubt which country you’re in
Cute cobbled streets and cloud-forest mountains
And then there’s the views
An impressive church to visit at the top, complete with Christmas decorations
This was made up of tiny white lights and would be quite the sight in the evening I’m sure, all lit up

Speaking of Christmas decorations, they were very much getting into the spirit of Christmas up this mountain. Well, they had decorations with lights (it really was so very tempting to come back at night) but they were not not your average traditional Christmas decorations. More of a jungle theme going on. We were literally surrounded by colorful monkeys, bears, snakes and anteaters.

They also had various effigy re-enactments of scenes from the New Testament featuring Jesus Christ. Not in the spirit of Christmas, these were permanent statues. Funny enough, they didn’t seem out of place surrounded by tropical plants and thick rainforest – it added an air of pensive tranquility as we wandered the grounds. I didn’t even mind the Christmas lights draped tastefully across the scenes.

Although I feel they went a step too far when they tried to marry the religious statues with the jungle flora and fauna. And there you have it… my overarching memories of Bogota are this series of ”Jesus and the [random animal]”.

Jesus and the giant parrot
Jesus and the smug capybara
Jesus and the hummingbird that turned a blind eye
Jesus and the manta ray (who was obviously lost and a long way from the sea)
Jesus and the disinterested ocelot
Roar – Jesus and the jaguar who wanted in
And finally, Jesus and the carefree sloth

Page 3 of 21

Powered by WordPress & Theme by Anders Nor.én Theme mucked about with by Darren, any loss of quality is my fault!