OurGlobalAdventure

Heather and Darren's Travels

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Diving in Key Largo

So you might be forgiven for thinking it all smells of roses in Heather & Darren’s Global Adventure blog land.  After all, like Facebook, this is the bright side of life.  The side you want people to see.  The social media equivalent of a postcard.  And yet, things don’t always turn out as planned.  Take our ‘diving’ trip in Key Largo.  Unfortunately, having driven 300 miles from Orlando down to the Keys to go scuba diving, our dive was cancelled due to low visibility, windy conditions and choppy seas.

So dive aborted, what else to do but drink beer, eat fresh fish, and watch the dolphins frolicking in the surf.  Sympathy please!



From the Sublime to the Ridiculous

A slight shock to the system coming straight from snowshoeing in Utah to green and humid Kissimmee, near Orlando in Florida. There’s worse places to go to an internal audit conference than Florida, I grant you that. But what to expect of a hotel flamboyantly named The Gaylord Palms? It’s right up there with, maybe even surpasses our local drinking establishment BJs (which we’re so used to now, it barely raises a titter). I’m not sure you could get away with it in the UK, at least not with a straight face – maybe with a nod and a wink and a nudge nudge, know what I mean, say no more.

The Gaylord Palms hotel has a super sized biodome thing going on – picture a US version of the Eden project but with just one dome. 


 Think expansive landscaping, with theming ranging from the winding waterways and lush vegetation of the Everglades to the laid back Key West boardwalks.  Complete with floating yacht type restaurant.


 And get this – they even have alligators. In the hotel. Well, in this biodome of an atrium. Admittedly small ones, officially called hatchlings. And turtles.

And then into this setting, insert 1,200 internal auditors. Even the alligators were scared!


Travel Plans

Heather has been on a roll with her blog updates from Utah and Florida, now that she is warmed up blogging it is time to put her to the test on the big road trip….

One week till we head off with the RV from Los Angeles, CA to Anchorage, AK.

Snowmobiling

Darren: “Let’s try something new that we haven’t tried before”.  Me: “OK.” Because fat tire biking and running on snow is practically old hat now. Please don’t suggest skiing; please don’t suggest skiing.  Darren: “Snowmobiling sounds like a lot of fun. Let’s go find some deep powder in the wilderness and rrrrip it up!”  Me: “Cool!”

We were in a group of 8 snowmobiles plus a guide, with a pretty even split between doubles and single riders. I’d opted to sit behind Darren on our 550cc power horse, capable of 65mph. Kitted up in more layers than you can imagine, I was actually pretty toasty throughout, even as we picked up the pace. As for the seat – oh the seat! In stark contrast to the fat tire bike seat and with my tush still feeling delicate, this seat was squishy, it was bouncy, and it was large enough for both cheeks to nestle comfortably. Not to mention heated. Yes, one happy chick.


Some riders seemed intent on providing entertainment for the rest of the group. Like upending the snowmobile and ploughing into a fence. Like becoming airborne and ending up in a tree. Like taking all your clothes off and zipping around on the snowmobile in your bikini. I kid you not.  

We were about as far into the wilderness as we were going, in an expansive snow ‘bowl’ surrounded on three sides by high ridges, with the fourth ‘side’ looking out onto amazing mountain views. At which point, we were able to let rip and do our own thing. Our idea of doing our own thing was a few laps on the snowmobile, zipping up and down and thoroughly having fun. One of our fellow riders idea of doing her own thing was getting her kit off. Even the guide had never seen anything like it, I think it made his day.



Little did our guide know that his day was about to take a turn for the worse. When left to our own devices, he’d pointed at a particularly steep slope and warned us to not to attempt it, as our machines didn’t have enough power to get up it. Everyone dutifully stayed away – no incidents there. You might think then – that someone could make the logical leap that if a particular slope was too steep, then any other steeper or higher slope would also be a no go. Erm, no. At which point our three hour snowmobile trip turned into a four hour one, while we watched the guide frantically digging out the snowmobile from handlebar deep snow, with the rest of the group unable to assist due to the precipitous location our team member had chosen to face plant.

All that remained was the double quick journey back to try to make up some of the lost time. Which didn’t really succeed due to losing some people in a tree, more digging out of snowmobiles and more face plants in the snow.


 All credit to Darren though, as we remained upright throughout and made it back in one piece.

Keeping Busy

There’s no shortage of activities to do in Park City. Starting with fat tire biking. A bit of an acquired art, I started off on the snow, shall I say, carefully. Darren advised that momentum is my friend which gradually improved my performance, boosting my confidence as my speed picked up. What I didn’t realize as we cruised past the Olympic Ski Village (from the 2002 winter olympics), was that we were going downhill with the wind behind us.

As we continued on our loop trail heading back into town, now going uphill and into the wind, I started to really feel the 7,000ft elevation in my lungs. My speed slowed and my energy was failing me. I was truly put in my place when a runner cruised past me, overtaking with ease and disappearing off into the distance.

One more thing to note about the fat tire bike – other than how cool and what a lot of fun it was – was the seat. Skinny as the one on Darren’s road bike back home and most certainly made for boys, I cursed at the bruising blows I received (which I actively voiced at every bump just in case Darren was in any doubt as to my discomfort). As the ride progressed, I tried to hover over the seat to ease my numb bum, which only rewarded me with shooting pins and needles – and not in a good way. Note to self: when hiring bikes, make sure to request a cruiser style seat.

Some interesting artwork at the side of the bike trail. These could probably still go faster than me.

 

Next day was running. Probably the biggest drama was deciding what to wear. When I saw my running partner Paola kitted out with gloves, beanie hat and multiple layers, I did a sanity check, a weather forecast check, even stuck my toe out on the balcony to test the temperature. Barely above freezing, I added layers accordingly, and we were off.

I was hoping to see a beaver, as there are a number of sets, dams and evidence of their existence in the marshy river running alongside the trail. Unfortunately not.  

There’s a really tiny Paola way off in the distance if you look hard enough

Yay, snow free patch 🙂

 

The elevation was a factor once again, but on the whole I was able to keep up. That is apart from over the snowy sections where I demonstrated my surefootedness in a similar way as a toddler taking its first steps. Meanwhile, Paola elegantly trotted off into the distance, like a nimble mountain goat.

More fun ‘art’ at the side of the trail – any excuse for a diversion 😉

Given this was supposed to be a snowshoeing holiday, it was high time to head up to some deeper snow and don our snowshoes again. We were blown away by the impressive views from the top of Guardsman Pass (and nearly blown away by the accompanying wind). Very much off piste, we were able to break our own trails, meandering up and down the steep slopes and taking in the scenery – reminding us again of why we love snowshoeing.



I have been known to get a tad excited over seeing animal tracks in the snow. At a remote spot where we spied some fresh paw shaped prints, I was convinced we were on the trail of a mountain lion. I led Darren down the mountainside, closely sticking to the lion prints, eagerly anticipating this would lead us to its den. I started to get suspicious when the tracks were heading dangerously close to a mountain lodge. Then my anticipation was rudely shattered at the sound of a dog barking. I guess Fido and Rover have paws too.

Good Food with Great Company

The first thing we needed after our 2 night camping experience was… pizza. Or maybe a shower. But having been thinking about pizza for 3 days since our rather quiet Sunday night in Mormontown, the shower had to wait. Pizza had to be done, and it didn’t disappoint. Pizza addiction quelled, at least for the time being, we headed to the historic mining town of Park City, now skiing mega center and known for its annual hosting of the Sundance film festival.

Made a lovely, dare I say luxury change, to stay at a friends’ condo in Park City (thanks Phil & Paola!). Very nice pad, centrally located with all mod cons, fresh water, and we didn’t even have to get up in the night to put more wood on the fire.

Four nights with friends I’m sure won’t have done our livers any good. But we did at least soak up some of the bevvies with some good food. As we were five ex-Brits a long way from home, I rustled up a couple of curries (one beef and tomato rogan josh styley, plus a veggie roasted cauliflower, potato and spinach aloo gobi stalwart). Went down very nicely at the time but the condo did have a distinctive indian curry smell lingering in the air for the remainder of the trip. Oops, sorry guys!

In addition to another delicious home cooked meal, we acquainted ourselves with the local eating and drinking establishments in Park City. A lot of character and a lot of atmosphere. Including the High West Distillery, with its small-batch locally distilled or blended whiskies. The tasting highlight would have to be the world’s only blend of scotch, bourbon and rye whisky which managed to be sweet, spicy and smoky all at once.

Another must do establishment in Park City is Wasatch brewery. This brewery has a real sense of humor, turning out naughty beer after naughty beer, generally with a nod and a wink to the prevailing Mormon way of life. Their Evolution Amber Ale attributes the progression from ape to man – to beer. The Devastator Double Bock (a whopping 8% ABV) proudly claims: If you’re going to sin, sin big. Apparently it has a serious cult following – imagine that, a cult following in Utah. And the favorite has to be the Polygamy Porter, with its sister-wife the Polygamy Nitro Porter, it’s ok to love them both.

There’s a Moose Loose…

One of the best reasons to camp in a yurt in the middle of nowhereness is that you can head off on your snowshoes into even more remote nowhereness. We didn’t have much of a plan other than to head off up the valley, breaking trail through the deep snow. It wasn’t long before we picked up fresh deep distinctive tracks, which could only have been made by a moose. Mission set: track the moose, find the moose, get photo of said moose. (Spoiler alert… No moose sighting. No moose photo.)


I think the moose could have benefitted from a pair of snowshoes actually, as he didn’t always take the optimal route, and he must have been up to his knees in snow at times. It wasn’t long before he was joined by a second set of prints. Paw prints. Maybe a bobcat, maybe a mountain lion. Both sets of tracks closely followed each other for a good few miles up the valley. A sure fire game of cat and moose 😉 Second spoiler alert… no lion sighting either.
So distinctly low on animal sightings. But right up there in terms of wilderness snowshoe hikes. Here’s some photos from our day.


The Yurt in the Wilderness

Looking up at the trailhead to set off for our snowshoe hike, we were starting to think we’d brought a few too many snowshoes. Some snow on what looked like distant peaks, but not a lot going on where we were.


Yet just around the corner, within a few hundred yards of the trailhead, there was snow underfoot and all around. As it was quite well trodden, the snowshoes remained attached to the back of our rucksacks – which I might add were a bit on the heavy side, containing enough food and drink for 2 nights. And as eating and drinking are some of our favorite things to do, we didn’t exactly pack light. Picture one of those pack mules that trudge to remote places in the mountains, looking like they have the weight of the world on their back. That was me.  


So slow going for the four miles up to the yurt, I’d say snail’s pace – or maybe the pace of a snail on his holidays, chilling out and enjoying the view. Worth it though, when we got to our very own home from home, and were able to enjoy basking in the afternoon sun, sipping a well earned beer. An Avery Maharaja IPA no less.


The first job (or should I say Darren’s first job!) was to light the wood burning stove. Plenty of firewood available and not one, not two, but three axes. Followed by snow collecting to melt for drinkwater, for cooking and washing.
The wood burning stove worked a treat at heating up the yurt. It had a cosy feel to it, despite being on the large side, sleeping up to 12 people. Enough room for the two of us to swing a cat. Or enough room to play table tennis.


The highlight of the food items we brought with us would have to be our cheese fondue. Working from a theory of maximum calories to weight ratio, we brought gruyere, swiss cheese, garlic, white wine and seasoning, and threw it all in a pot. Served with baby new potatoes and pitta bread for dunking. I think there may have been a few comments on texture issues had this been served in a finer establishment. But to us, it hit the spot.

4% Utah Beer

We are getting into the bigger/stronger beers in the US where it isn’t unusual for an IPA to be 7%, and even 10% isn’t that unusual. So imagine our frowns when we get some beers to take back to the hotel and find out that deep in Mormon Land here in Utah that anything more than 4% alcohol has to be got from a state liquor store (which doesn’t open until 11am tomorrow!).

Luckily one of the local breweries have done their best trying to brew a tasty 4% beer. 

You would think my head will thank me for it tomorrow but when I realized the deal in the supermarket I swapped my basket for a shopping trolley and loaded up with quantity over quality.

Antelope Island Hike

6 miles is a not insubstantial hike, especially when it involves a climb of 2,000 feet.  Pertinent to mention is starting at an elevation of 4,500 feet. I only noticed one person huffing and puffing more than me and his excuse was carrying a smug toddler in one of those baby carrying contraptions on his back.

Kitted up in our hiking boots with fleeces and gloves, woolly hat at the ready, we were surprised to see many fellow hikers with just shorts and t shirts. I kid you not, I even saw someone wearing a skimpy vest top. Wondering whether they were truly hardcore or just foolhardy, we concluded this must just be a really good weather day for them. After all, there was a promised high of 55 degrees and the sun was almost visible through the streaky haze of clouds.

The views throughout propelled this walk into my Top Hikes list, with snow capped mountains reflected in the sometimes clear, sometimes shimmering lake. I particularly liked the way the trail meandered from one side of the ridge to the other, balancing out the views as we climbed higher, until we were treated with a breathtaking 360 degree view from the top of Frary Peak.

An added bonus on the hike was spotting bison. Far below on the grasslands were tiny flecks of brown, barely discernible from the rocks. In fact, there may have been a few false calls, it being difficult to prove one way or the other at that distance.

The combination of trail mix snacks and Werthers Original was inevitably not enough to stave off the talk of potential pizza later and the mile by mile countdown to the curry chicken wrap awaiting us back in the car.  Nom nom.

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